Semester At Sea: Portugal!

Hi Lovely Readers!

I hope this entry finds you all healthy and happy! I am doing quite well! I had some free time and I thought I would write the entry for Portugal, instead of combining it with my experience in Spain. I only had two days in each country, so it was a whirlwind! I think that the time constraint also made me hyper-vigilant to my surroundings and experiences. Portugal was really amazing! I loved it so much! I plan to go back very soon so I can see more of the country. I honestly had no idea what to expect, and I must admit that I found myself ignorant of the country's history and culture. It made the entire experience so much more exciting and surprising. Furthermore, the field programs were some of the best I have had during this entire trip! It definitely made me wish that we had an extra day in Portugal. I guess it gives me an excuse to return. Jack was right about how beautiful and special this country is. It may be small, with a population of around 10 million, but it has had a powerful influence on world history. You can find Portuguese culture and language in places such as Brazil, and even China!

During my stay in Portugal I traveled to Sintra and spent time in Lisbon, our port city, as well. In Portuguese, Lisbon is Lisboa. Lisbon is the oldest city in Europe, which explains why it is such a cultural hub. The city has seven steep hills and trolleys. It reminds me a lot of San Francisco. They even have a replica of the Golden Gate Bridge! Most of the buildings were pretty old, and had fantastic iron work around the windows. The lamps were also a unique and fun feature of the streets in Lisbon. The sidewalk stones were shaped in a very distinctive manner, and I learned that they were created by pounding the stones into the ground with a wooden mallet. Apparently, this is a pretty laborious process! My favorite aspect of the city was the tile. On several buildings you could see walls filled with beautiful, old tile. Each building had it's own unique tile design. It was unexpected because I did not know the Portuguese used tile. I realized quickly that the city and surrounding areas were influenced by the Moors. They brought their tile to the city and created city quarter names in Arabic. I loved how old the city looked. It gave it so much character and told such a rich story of times long past.

Time for my four fun experiences (Sorry it is a bit long)! I decided to write four instead of five. Hope that is okay!

1) The Food!!!

I was happy to discover that the food in Portugal is quite good and there is a lot of it! Food has its own unique culture. I quickly learned that the Portuguese live to eat. Meals usually lasted several hours, which allowed for intimate conversation and enjoyment. I enjoyed getting to know some of my shipmates and eating delicious food. I had this amazing pastry during my cooking experience, which I will talk about a bit later. It was covered in cinnamon sugar and filled with a tasty vanilla cream. The pastry dough was so flaky! The closest thing I can compare it to is a churro, but with filling. Another wonderful dessert item I enjoyed was a pastry filled with walnuts and apples. The outside of this pastry was coated in sugar and added just the right amount of sweetness.

The Portuguese also love their wine! Every meal I had was served with a glass of wine, especially red. I learned that the Portuguese prefer red wine, because they feel it goes with everything. In restaurants we were often given bottles of wine and they were replenished throughout the meal. It made it very difficult to keep track of how much you had enjoyed already! Another great thing about Portuguese food was the cheese! It was so yummy! I had three different kinds of cheese. One was a hard cheese that consisted of a combination of goat and cow milk. The second was a softer cheese and the third was a goat cheese that was very spreadable. Bread was also served in abundance with every meal. I definitely enjoyed that!!

A few of our meals were served family style, which I liked. Others were served individually. I really had a variety of experiences with the food and the wine. At one of the last restaurants I dined in, they served kabobs, further reinforcing the Moorish influence on Portuguese cuisine. One funny aspect of this meal was the accompaniment of French Fries to the kabobs. It was definitely an interesting combination. I have noticed that a lot of meals in Europe are served with fries, no matter what the dish is.

During the cooking experience I learned that the Portuguese pride themselves on food that is flavorful. When I tasted the olive oil I was pleasantly surprised by the volume of flavor it had compared to what I am used to. Dipping the bread in the olive oil created a fantastic culinary experience! The sausages I tried were also jam-packed with aggressive flavors. My palate was definitely pleased in Portugal!

2) Lisbon Cooking Experience

This had to be one of my favorite experiences in Portugal! I love cooking because I believe it to be one of the most relaxing and therapeutic activities. I can get lost in my thoughts as I slice and chop all the vegetables. It gives me a chance to think and it gives me more practice. I love that through cooking I can create something delicious and enjoyable for those around me. It is very rewarding! I love combining flavors, learning and preparing food.

When I saw that one of the field programs in Portugal offered a cooking class, I immediately signed up. I couldn't wait to learn about Portuguese cuisine, especially since I believe that food is an important aspect of culture. Through food we can learn about palates, history, rituals, practices, and life in a particular culture. I also had no clue what Portuguese food was, but I was excited to go on an adventure of discovery.

We arrived at the workshop around 11AM because traffic in Lisbon is often backed up. It was located in an old factory that had been refurbished and revitalized to feature several small shops and cafes. The workshop was called "Kiss the Cook", which I thought was very appropriate! The shop was decorated country chic with a splash of modern touches. It was really nice! We were greeted with a plate of cheese, sausage, bread and olive oil. Wine was also offered, but Lidia said that it was probably too early. Most of us ended up enjoying a glass anyway. It was at this workshop I learned the importance of flavor and of red wine. Lidia stated that red wine was a perfect accompaniment to the meal we were preparing, especially because it was windy/ rainy outside. As I mentioned a bit ago, the olive oil was fantastic as well as the crusty bread and cheese.

After mingling for a while, it was time to start preparing our lunch. David was our instructor, and he was super upbeat and friendly. He talked us about the dishes and their cultural significance. The first thing we worked on was the main entrée, Caldeirada. We chopped up onions, green pepper, potatoes, and tomatoes. We let that sauté for a while before adding in some garlic. While that was simmering, we began preparing our appetizer. First we chopped up a Portuguese apple, which was bitterer and sour than any apple I have ever tasted. It wasn't bad. Then we placed it in a pan with a lot of rich, creamy butter to caramelize. After that we placed some rosemary in the apples for flavor and sprinkled on some sugar. While that was caramelizing, we added codfish and whole shrimp into the Caldeirada. Once the apples were done, we set them aside and cleaned the pan so that we could cook the sausage. Then, we cooked the sausage and plated it with the apple rosemary mixture. David finished those plates off with balsamic vinegar. He then released us to enjoy the appetizer while he finished off the entrées.

The appetizer was really fantastic! I will probably make it again soon. I loved the addition of rosemary. It was a pleasant pop of flavor. The apples were also delicious cooked. They had much more sweetness, which can also be contributed to the addition of sugar. The sausage itself was unlike anything I had ever tasted. David told us the story of this special sausage, and I will now divulge it to you. Back in the old days Jews were not allowed to practice their religion in Portugal. After a while, police began to enter their homes to see if they were eating pork. If they weren't, they were labeled as Jewish and arrested. So, to avoid this, the people created a sausage that was made from chicken and bread, but looked a lot like the pork sausages. From then on if the police came by, they would have the sausages roasting over the fire, and they would avoid being taken into custody. I thought it was an interesting story. The sausage was not very spicy and its consistency was less firm than you would expect, probably because of the low fat content and the use of bread. All in all, every component of this dish worked together to make something pleasing to the palate.

After eating the appetizer, we were called back to our cooking stations. David had added mussels and coriander to the dish. The final step was to add salt and pepper. Now, I don't know how many of you know me well, but I do not eat seafood at all. I have a sort of aversion to it- meaning I fear it and also strongly dislike it. It makes me uncomfortable to be around it. However, I was feeling adventurous during this field program and I decided to try and conquer my fear/ dislike and try it. The first thing I tasted was the broth. I did not like it at all but I know that anyone who loves seafood would enjoy it. It was packed full of flavor from all the different seafood items. Since I didn't have as much of a problem with the cod, I chose that to try. It took me a while, but eventually I was able to taste it. Again, it wasn't something I would eat but it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. It had a pretty mild fish flavor. In truth, this was a huge accomplishment for me. I was able to try something I had been avoiding for years, and I was proud of myself for making this baby step. I decided that I would try the dish again at home but I would make it with chicken instead. Luckily, someone was a vegetarian and they created a tofu version that they were willing to share. I liked it a lot.

Quick story about the Caldeirada! David explained that when the fishermen had small fish that they knew they wouldn't be able to sell at a market, they would bring it home to eat themselves. They would add any vegetables they had on hand to the dish. Therefore, the poorer classes mostly consumed Caldeirada. After a while, the dish became popularized and was served in restaurants. Soon enough, it was considered a valuable dish that could be enjoyed by any individual. Cod is an extremely popular fish, and the Caldeirada had a ton of it. I am really sad to say that I didn't get a photo of the main entrée but I will probably be able to get it from someone else later.

Following the entrée, we were served more wine, cheese, sausage and dessert. The dessert consisted of the pastry I mentioned with the cream filling, a salted chocolate mousse and a small shot of dessert sherry or wine. My favorite part was the pastry, but the mousse was a close second. I was surprised by the saltiness of the dessert but I felt it was well balanced. None of the items were too sweet. I didn't really like the dessert beverage. It was really strong, so I think it was probably sherry rather than wine. It was a nice finish to a wonderful meal.

I had such a fun time during this field program! I was able to make a baby step towards conquering my aversion. I also had my own cooking station, which had its pluses and minuses. I liked the extra space but I did have more work than the other pairs because I didn't have someone to divide the work with. I would love to do this again. I learned a lot about Portuguese cuisine and we had a great, excited and enthused group and chef. It was awesome. :)

3) Fado and Folklore

Hearing Fado and watching the Folklore in Portugal was a really fantastic experience! It was my favorite cultural experience so far in regards to dancing/ singing. We headed out to the restaurant in the evening around 7PM. The bus took us around Lisbon and our guide talked to us about the city. I learned a lot more about what makes it a unique place and about its history. The sun was setting and the city took on a very romantic atmosphere. Seeing the lamps lit up was something else. The roads were also extremely narrow, so my heart rate would go up a little every time cars drove by and the bus driver honked his horn or drove up on a sidewalk. I think the scariest part of Europe is the driving. You never know what to expect. Earlier on the panoramic tour we almost hit some cars trying to turn around. It definitely woke me up! Haha.

One interesting thing I learned was that in the 16^th century Lisbon experienced a giant earthquake and a subsequent Tsunami. Apparently, it leveled the city. Because of this, the city had to be rebuilt from the bottom up. That is why so many buildings near the coast have similar architecture, with the rod iron accents and tall rectangular buildings. Furthermore, there are about two million people in the city by day, and one million by night. The cost of living is extremely high, so many people live out in the suburbs. From an American perspective, Portugal was not very expensive. Their economy is definitely suffering though. They had to cut back vacation time. Anyway, the views around the city were amazing!

Our guide also made sure to give us a lesson on Fado. I already had a minimal understanding of it from cultural pre-port on the ship, but it wasn't enough. She explained that the primary theme of this style is saudade, which does not have a direct translation into English. The closest translation would be nostalgia or an intense longing for the past, and better times. Fado is the national style of music. The saudade in the music can be directed towards a variety of different things. You could have saudade for your grandmother's pie or for someone who has recently passed. In many songs, the longing is for the times when Portugal was a wealthy, influential and powerful country. The other primary object of saudade is unrequited love.

There are two styles of fado. The first originated among the poor classes and marginalized individuals in Lisbon. Marginalized individuals included prostitutes, sailors and coachmen. Lisbon fado is usually sung in a very raspy sort of way and focuses on a longing for better days and times. The elite, for obvious reasons, rejected this form of fado. The second style of fado originated at Coimbra University. Men usually sing in this style and wear black capes, traditional to the uniforms at the University. The primary theme of Coimbra fado is love, whether it be unrequited or reciprocated. It is also much more lyrical and light compared to the Lisbon form. Classic guitars and a special Portuguese guitar are used to accompany the singing. The Portuguese guitar is in the shape of a teardrop, which I believe is very appropriate.

During our meal we got to listen to both styles of fado. It was fantastic! The singing was very different and I actually really loved it. I didn't understand a word of it, but I could feel the melancholy undertones and the longing. It was very unique and unlike anything I have ever heard. Normally, music in America rhymes and flows but fado sounds more disjointed and seems to tell a story.

The folk dancing was also really cool! Their costumes were true to the period and were very intricate and beautiful. One of my favorite dances was the one using the special noisemakers. The women were spinning so fast, their skirts were billowing, and they were a blur on stage. Another one of my favorites was one where two men did a form of tap. They would smack their shoes on the wooden stage and their footwork was amazing and skilled. I really enjoyed this portion of the show as well.

The food was fantastic, of course! We were served endless bottles of wine. I am not really a wine person, but in Portugal I definitely tried a few glasses. They also had olives, bread and sliced pork with apple sauce and sautéed spinach. For dessert we enjoyed a rice pudding. It was not my favorite. I had never tasted it prior to this experience and was surprised by the flavor of the rice contrasted with the sweet custard of the pudding. They would perform a few numbers in between courses, which again, speaks to Portuguese food culture. Fado is very popular, even among the Portuguese. Every table was full of tourists and of Portuguese people, enjoying the cultural experience. I definitely want to come back to Portugal so I can hear more and experience more fado.

4) Sintra and Pena Palace

On the second day in Portugal I signed up to take a trip to Sintra. One of the primary attractions in Sintra is Pena Palace, which sits high on a mountaintop. The bus ride was short, and I sat in the back with a big group of girls. The back of the bus had a table and a U-shaped seating area. It was awesome! :) As we drove along, our guide Anna explained that we had to take a small bus to Pena because the going was very tough and steep. Us girls all exchanged glances because the bus was still a good size. As we drove up the highway our bus began to struggle a little. Right then I thought to myself that the expression 'struggle bus' probably came from this type of experience. It made me laugh. I told the group that we were on the struggle bus!

When we got to Sintra I was surprised by how wooded it was. There were tons of trees and Anna said it was a popular destination for people in Lisbon on the weekends. We passed a 14^th century cathedral and began our trek up the mountain. Let me just say it was a slightly terrifying climb. The roads were narrow and extremely steep. Our bus driver would fly around the tight curves and I was afraid we would fall off the cliff. Anna then said that the rain made the roads slippery for the bus, which did not make any of us feel any better. Haha. Finally we made it to the top after about 15-20 minutes.

The palace and city was covered in a thick blanket of fog, which was unfortunate because I am sure the views are spectacular on a clear day. Pena Palace is deemed as romantic because it is a palace in the clouds. The fog was also really thick and you couldn't see too far in front of you. I took some photos but they weren't as good as they could have been. We walked the rest of the way up the mountain. The steps were a bit slippery, so the going was slow. We finally reached it but you couldn't see the top. As we walked around the palace, I was surprised to find out how beautiful it was. There was so much detail! I loved the tile, bright colors and stonework. The palace was surprisingly tropical and had several palm around the courtyards. The fog almost added to the mystery of the place. We then took a tour inside Pena, and it was amazing! The rooms were small but had very ornate touches. There was a really strong Indian influence in the furniture and design. I loved the palace and my favorite room had to be the kitchen!

After spending some time at Pena, we were taken to the city center for some free time. At this point it began to rain, which made the going a little dangerous with all the slippery stone. I enjoyed that other delicious apple walnut pastry I mentioned earlier. We then ate an amazing lunch at a small restaurant I also mentioned earlier. We enjoyed olives, smoked ham, cheese, bread, wine, pork and beef kabobs, rice, French fries, salad, soup and a custard cake. It was a ton of food and the meal lasted well over an hour and a half.

On the way back to Lisbon we drove along the coast. It had cleared up at this point, so the views were spectacular! Our final stop was in a small coastal town named Cascias. We had about 45 minutes of free time. One thing I noticed was the pungent odor coming from the lobster cages. My friend Kacey is from Maine and she said it smelled like home. The views from the harbor were also very nice. It was fun to walk around and explore the place a bit. By the end of this experience I was satisfied because I had seen some amazingly beautiful places.

Portugal was one of my favorite ports. It is definitely in my top 3 so far. I had no idea what to expect and was pleasantly surprised throughout. Two days is hardly any time to create a picture of a country, but I did my best. I think the fantastic field programs really contributed to my positive impressions. I feel like I learned a lot.

It was nice to be on solid ground as well. The night before arriving in port we went through a rough storm. The ship was rocking so much it began to open and close the drawers in our cabin! When we peeked out the window there waves were touching our window on Deck 3! During the day they had gone around and bolted the portholes on Deck 2 shut. It was definitely difficult to sleep, but we all made it through just fine. Surprisingly, I wasn't seasick.

My time in Portugal really opened my eyes. I realized that every country has its own amazing and interesting aspects. It showed me that traveling more in the future would be really enriching. It would give me a chance to see so many cultures I have no concept of and it would allow me to grow further. It would expose me to different ideas. Semester at Sea has shaped me into a more global individual already. Things that used to seem so important now seem trivial. The world is so big, and I encourage every single person to travel if they can. In America I feel we are so isolated from the world and other cultures. We assume that we are superior because we are so powerful and have such a strong voice. However, it is important to realize that there are other ways of doing things, and some are even better than you could imagine. Every country has its faults. I think that as our world becomes more globalized, it is our responsibility to learn about other countries and to work together to improve the world. We need to share ideas to see what works and what doesn't. At the same time, it is extremely important to respect a country's viewpoint and cultural values. A relativistic viewpoint is ideal. Just because something is different does not mean that it is wrong. That is the major takeaway I have felt and learned from this experience.

Anyway, Portugal was great. I will be posting my entry for Spain this evening as well. Photos are below! Thanks for reading/ following. Please E-mail if you have questions or anything! I will not have much access to Internet in Africa or South America, but should be able to update my blog while at sea. Hope you all had a great weekend! Sending hugs! Adeus!

-Jessica

Kiss the Cook Workshop