Semester At Sea: Greetings From Ghana!

Hello Readers!

I apologize for not updating my blog sooner! Things have been pretty crazy on the ship lately. I just finished up my midterms and have been catching up on other assignments. Right now we are docked off the coast of Namibia for refueling. It has been nice to have a still ship for the day. The past few days since Ghana have been rough and I have been seasick a few times. I realize that this experience has its ups and its downs! Overall though, I love it and I hope to return to the ship again after this experience. I joked with some of my friends that we should come back on the 100-year anniversary. I will be 72 or 73 depending on which voyage it would be. I don't know if that will happen or not, but I do know I want to be involved in SAS. My life will never be the same and I want others to have that opportunity as well!

This week has been full of fun and adventure. We crossed the equator and became shellbacks on Neptune Day. We also had our Halloween Dance a few weeks early. We are heading towards South Africa and we will be there on Saturday. I am so excited! Part of me just wants to be on land but the greater part is looking forward to more memories and life changing moments. I will post a separate entry about Neptune Day and other random happenings because I want to focus on my experience in Ghana.

My time in Ghana was life changing. While there, I faced both surprises and challenges. I grew a lot and saw things that made me uncomfortable at times. Spending time in this country really allowed me to look through an anthropological lens and to accept the culture for what it was, rather than seeing it as strange or weird. I learned to have a relativistic attitude and to avoid looking at a practice or happening as right or wrong and to instead see it as different, in the most beautiful way possible. You grow through challenges. While fun times are always great, you don't always get a complete picture, especially if your focus is on sight seeing or partying. Ghana was so different from anything I have ever seen or been exposed to. After this experience, I learned how diverse the world is, but also how small it is. There were so many great moments and stories I have from Ghana. As per usual, I will focus on five main things that happened. I look forward to sharing more when I return back to the states. To write all about Ghana would take over 11 typed pages, as I realized from the email I sent to my family! I will now summarize it for you and I must say some things I will mention in this blog are things I experienced that made me sad or uncomfortable, but I think they are important to mention. It was part of the adventure I had there.

1) Kakum National Park

One of my favorite experiences in Ghana was my adventure on the canopy walkway. It took us a few hours to drive there from the resort, but it gave me plenty of time to get to know other people on the field program with me. I made some great new connections and friends and this field program had a lot of bus time! I think we were on the bus for about 15 hours in three days. Anyway, on the way there it began to rain and we were all worried that it would affect our ability to participate on the walkway. Luckily, the rain stopped by the time we got there. Our guide talked to us along the way and explained that Kakum National Park was only a fraction of rainforest that used to exist. He was a very informative, fun, and opinionated guy. I loved that! He told us from the get go that he would say what he thought, true to the Ghanaian spirit. He said that humans have this innate trait to destroy things. I guess it is pretty true when you think about history and events happening today. It was disheartening but I felt lucky to be able to visit the rainforest.

Kakum was beautiful. It was overcast but still very humid and hot. The first thing I noticed were the brightly colored lizards scuttling about. They were black and bright orange and after they ran for a bit they would stop and do a little push up. It was amusing. Once our group was together we met up with our guide who would walk us up to the canopy. We were there pretty early, and there was no one else around. The climb up was pretty difficult because it was steep and being on the ship hasn't really improved my fitness! I am definitely out of shape. Haha. While hiking up, we passed a thick trail of large ants. We were told not to step on them because apparently they are pretty aggressive ants. He also told us about rainforest conservation and about the walkway. He made sure to tell us that they checked the ropes every day and changed them every 6 months and that there was no way they would break. Still, I was a little nervous and running on a bit of adrenaline. I made it a goal to walk across all seven bridges, even with my slight fear of heights.

We divided into two groups of twenty and then into groups of five to walk across at one time. When I first stepped on I grabbed onto the sides for dear life. The walkway itself was so narrow you could only put one foot in front of the other. When others came on the bridge behind you, the bridge would move up and down. It was an adventure! Looking below me, I could see the treetops and the thick green leaves. I slowly made my way along the bridges and to the lookout points. Below me, the plank creaked and wobbled. When I got to the lookout points, I took a few moments to look around and absorb the beauty around me. It was amazing! The fog only added to the mystery and mood of the place. I couldn't get over the fact that I was actually in a rainforest… in Ghana. It never sunk in that I was across the world from home. Standing there, with the forest below me and the vast sky above me, was a very special moment. I realized how small I was. It was almost like a new world and it was so quiet. You could hear some birds in the distance, but everything was pretty still. Before entering the park, I saw a sign that said 'leave nothing but your footprints.' I thought that was pretty cool. I realized that I was a visitor and that I should do my best to be quiet and to not impose. It was hard to do so because we were all so excited and chattering as we walked across the canopy.

I am happy to say I made it all the way! I looked at fear in the face and tested my limits. It was truly a fun and exciting experience. Right after I stepped off the canopy walkway, we heard the gentle patter of rain. Soon enough, that gentle patter turned into a heavy slap of drops on leaves. The rain didn't reach us right away because the forest shielded us. We all stood there a moment to reflect on the fact that it was raining… in a rainforest… in Ghana. I love the sound of rain, and I took a few moments to stand in it and listen. It's the little things you experience that turn out to mean the most. Such can be said about my experience on Semester at Sea. Once we got back to the main area, I passed a sign that said 'You survived!' and it made me chuckle a little. After this experience, I realized the importance of protecting the rainforests. Because of deforestation, species are being eradicated. We need to protect them for future generations. The natural beauty of the planet is important. I can't imagine a world without its wonders.

2) Nzulezu and my ride in a dugout canoe

One of my most interesting adventures so far on Semester at Sea was riding in an open dugout canoe down a river to the water village of Nzulezu. I have never ridden in a dugout canoe and I was excited to see what it would be like. I was also worried we would tip over. After enjoying an amazing lunch at a Spanish tapas restaurant and after meeting the African gray parrot, we walked down a wooden bridge to reach the canoes. We were all sporting bright orange and all of us were covered in multiple layers of clothing. This was to protect from the sun, to prevent mosquito bites, and to be culturally sensitive. I got in a group with 8 other individuals and we piled into the largest canoe. Our guide was in our canoe and he sat in front. I was comforted by the fact that our canoe didn't have any water in the bottom and we didn't see our driver scooping out water like we did in some of the other ones. We sat on the wooden slots and after everyone was situated, they pushed us off the sand. All of us girls squealed a little because it felt strange in the canoe at first. It took some getting used to. The feeling of instability was more disconcerting than anything else.

We had a great time floating down the gentle river. It was completely quiet, save for a few bird cries and our driver slapping his paddle in the river to propel us forward. Occasionally another canoe would pass us and we would have a race of sorts. Towards the middle of the hour-long ride I got to paddle. That was a lot of fun! The surroundings were so amazing and peaceful! I really got the chance to relax, absorb and reflect as the lily pads floated by. I also had some great conversations with my peers about the future after an experience like this. Without Internet access or phone service, we were forced to socialize and talk about life. I personally love that about Semester at Sea. When I first arrived, I felt the pangs of lost technology and I had to get used to not going on Facebook. It was really hard and I would type it in my browser only to be denied of it. The worst part was when I received emails about group invites or messages that I couldn't actually see. With time, I came to appreciate the disconnection. I realized how dependent I was on technology and then came to terms with the fact that life is so exciting here that I have no reason to be on Facebook or Pininterest. If I did have Internet access, I would have less opportunity to absorb my surroundings, socialize with my peers, meet locals and just experience the world around me. Now I hardly think about Facebook and when I do get Internet access in port, I use it to call my parents on Skype. Homesickness outweighs desire to attend to social dramas occurring on Facebook. Not being able to text has also reformed me a little. When I return, I want to try and avoid depending on technology so much, except for important things like calling loved ones or looking at the news. One thing I have noticed is that over time, I am more concerned with world events and am seeing parallels on the news channels and the countries we have visited.

Eventually, our canoe passed a small gate and entered a vast area that looked like a lake, with palms and other vegetation lining the sides. In the distance, I could see Nzulezu. Our guide told us that Nzulezu means 'village on the water.' After a while, we pulled up alongside the village and stepped into a cultural experience all its own. Most houses were constructed with thin wooden slats and the walkway, with larger wooden planks. The village itself seemed pretty small and the people seemed very proud of their homes. This was evident by the air they had about them and during our meeting with the village chief. Children drumming and dancing in really beautiful and traditional garb greeted us all. The drums filled the air in a vibrant and exciting way. The children had this life to them, and they were full of beautiful smiles. They escorted us to the village meeting area where their chief told us the history of the village and answered our questions. We learned that over 600 people live in Nzulezu but that some live more on the mainland. Many community members travel there when it gets windy. The people commute to work outside the village via canoes, and cart goods into the community using canoes. I witnessed religious pluralism here. The community had a Christian church but the chief also discussed traditional practices that are used. This blending just made the community more unique. Our guide told us that we went to Nzulezu to see how the rural people live. Their houses were on stilts over the river. Poverty was not as evident here, but I did notice it. The chief said that his people love their village and their way of life. After the presentation, I got to take a picture with the chief. That was a special moment as was receiving his blessing for great success and accomplishment in the future.

We then spent the next hour and a half canoeing back towards the restaurant. It took longer because we were going upstream. As the afternoon sun appeared, it created the opportunity for great photos. It also cooled down a little, which was welcomed with open arms by all of us. I thought this whole experience was unique because we got to see a lifestyle that was different from all the urban areas we passed. By urban, I don't mean high-rise buildings or evidence of globalization. In Ghana, urban means lots of people living in one area. Driving through Ghana so much helped me realize this and I must admit that this port is different from anything I have ever seen in my entire life. Spending time in the canoe was a really fun and rewarding experience. We got to talk more to our guide and to our driver about different plants or sights along the way. They were both more than ready to share all that they could. I appreciated that so very much. This was my first adventure in Ghana, and I realized at the end that it was one of my favorites.

3) Cape Coast Castle

One of the most moving and powerful experiences I had in Ghana was visiting the slave dungeons in Cape Coast. The day of our trip, our guide made sure to talk to us about the history of the transatlantic slave trade. He told us that it was a serious trip, and was not to be taken lightly. He told us about the ocean currents that made the trade possible, and about the consequences of such a journey. He explained that 9 million enslaved Africans passed through the castles and that most Africans were captured by fellow Africans, not by the Europeans that were selling them. Afterwards, our guide told us a story that was particularly moving. It was a narrative by a man who was enslaved in the 1790's. He explained that he was left behind in the village to care for the homes with his sister. They were forcibly captured, bound and taken from their home. One night, they were separated and pried apart from one another. They never saw each other again. I can't even imagine it, and hearing that story really hit home for me.

When we arrived at the castle, we were told that we couldn't take any photographs unless we paid a fee. I ended up forgoing the fee and instead took very detailed notes on the experience and on what I learned. Our first stop in the castle was the male dungeon. We walked down a narrow, steep, stone tunnel down underground. We entered a fairly small room to the right with the only light source being three small slits in the high stonewalls. Our guide told us that up to 150 African males would be confined in this small cell anywhere from 3 to 12 weeks. There wasn't much room to lay down or move freely. There were two shallow gutters running through the cell that served as transport for bodily excrements. Oftentimes, people were forced to sleep beside their own excrement, which promoted the spread of disease. Each man was shackled according to his behavior. Some had their wrists shackled to another and others were shackled by their feet. Still others had arm and ankle shackles. When it was time to transport them to the ships, the jailer would escort them to the deep and vast underground tunnel.

We walked next to a room near the underground tunnel that had a priest dressed in traditional garb. He preformed a traditional ceremony and then blessed us with academic success. After watching this, we walked out of the dungeon and viewed the two plaques outside the cell. One of them was created by Ghanaian chiefs, promising to never let history repeat itself. The second one certified that President Barack Obama had visited the castle in July of 2009. We then spent some time in the courtyard, looking at the views and the cannons. The cannons were used to ward off pirates and the Dutch, as well as other enemies of the British. I was shocked by the contrast between the beauty of my surroundings and the horror and terror of the past that existed within the castle.

Next, we peeked down into the underground tunnel, which seemed to be pretty deep. You couldn't even see the bottom. We entered a room that had the tunnel sealed off so we could see the size. It would be impossible to escape. Our next stop was the female cell, where women would be confined if they refused to be concubines to the soldiers. The cell was quite small and had a narrow slit for food to go through. Most women were kept in the female dungeon. It closely resembled the male dungeon but was a little smaller and was above ground. We learned that if children were born, they were given Christian names. Oftentimes, they would be confined as well. We walked through the door of no return and out to the ocean. Outside the castle, there were countless fishing boats and activities occurring. After getting some fresh air and a welcomed ocean breeze, we walked through the door of return and to the condemned cell. This is where slaves were sent if they misbehaved. This cell was really small, and pitch black. It isn't hard to imagine that death soon followed entry into this confinement. Our guide said the soldiers starved them to show an example to others in the castle.

Our last stop on the tour was the governor's house. It had wooden floors, white plaster walls, and small blue shutters. The views were spectacular, which again created some cognitive conflict for me, knowing the horrible things that happened there.

This experience offered a unique insight into a sad chapter in our history. It exposed me to a new perspective and showed me that it is important to learn about the good as well as the bad. Even though it was painful to hear about the conditions, I am glad I had the opportunity to learn. My understanding prior to this visit was limited in that it only encompassed an understanding of the middle passage and the plantations the enslaved peoples worked at. I did not know much about how they were captured and transported across the seas. This experience allowed me to learn more about the past. It is easy enough to put slavery on the back burner in this day and age and to see it as something so far in the past and archaic. In reality, so many other forms of slavery exist today. The battle is far from over.

The final thing I wanted to mention occurred on the way back to the ship. One of the greatest moments of this program was when our guide compared us to a salad. He said that each of us is a vegetable, with a different background. We are beautiful in our own unique sense but when you bring it together with all the other vegetables, you make something so beautiful and delicious. He told us we needed to see each other as one people. He explained that we are descended from a common ancestor and we need to see each other as one person rather than as us and them. He told us to educate others to create a better world and that we all need to work together. It was quite moving! I realized how true that statement was though. Another man showed me one of Ghana's main symbols, a bird. He said that it symbolized home sweet home and that if you wear it, you acknowledge that we all come from the same ancestors and that Africa is always home. He then said, ' We are one." It was beautiful in its simplicity, profoundness and truth.

4) Field Lab in Tema

My last day in Ghana was spent on my field lab for Anthropology of Food. I was so excited for it, and it turned out to be my favorite lab so far. We met up at the gangway in the morning to meet up with Ghanaian university students majoring in Agriculture and Food Science. It was during this time that I was introduced to our host for the day, Annalisa. She was so kind, welcoming, and vibrant. After meeting her, I became even more excited for the events of the day. We walked her around the ship and showed her main areas like the dining halls, student union, snack bars, the pool, classrooms and observation deck. We then joined our class to listen to a presentation about Ghanaian food systems, ingredients and cuisine, as well as agriculture. Then we hopped on the bus and headed to the local market. We spent about 45 minutes in the market, walking around and asking numerous questions. Annalisa was very informative and showed us so many interesting and unique things. This market was exciting! They seemed to have everything there, including clothes, fabrics, shoes, plastic containers, fruits, vegetables, beans, seeds, cereal grains, snacks and so much more! Our main focus was on the foods offered, and most of them were easily identified. Others didn't have a translation in English and remained a mystery.

The market was like windy labyrinth and you could easily get lost there. I noticed tons of women balancing giant baskets full of goods on their heads and wheelbarrows hurtling through the narrow walkways. The fruits and vegetables were so colorful! Two of the most interesting items for sale in the market were live, huge snails and goat and cow skin. The butchering area was difficult for me to walk through. There were men wielding giant cleavers on large pieces of meat. It was hot, the flesh was flying and there were flies abound. It showed me that there are cultural differences in the handling of food. The smell was very strong and a little off-putting for me. I realized that in Ghana, nothing goes to waste. I saw all parts of the animal for sale on the wooden slab tables. Meat is highly prized in Ghana, and for a moment I had to redefine my definition of food. Ghanaians often consume goat, and they also have goats as pets. In certain parts of America, it would be blasphemous to consume your pet. I learned that just because something is culturally defined as a nonfood, other cultures might consume it out of necessity and desire to do so. The concept of food, after all, encompasses anything we can digest. With that mindset, it made my experience in Ghana much easier.

The coolest thing I saw in the market was the pounding of the fufu. This calorie dense food is commonly accompanied by stew or soup. It is a mixture of cassava and unripe plantains. The mortar and pestle were wooden and giant! It was cool to see the man throw it up and over and down to pound it while the woman would add ingredients and fold the dough in between pounds.

After the market, we headed to a restaurant that served local foods. I got to try fufu, as well as some other items I had seen at the market. Overall, I realized that Ghanaian cuisine is not my favorite. However, I thought it was valuable to try the foods to gain a complete understanding of the cuisine of Ghana. It was all very spicy, which surprised my palate after two months of bland ship food. The fufu was very thick, doughy and starchy. Some of the other students were adventurous enough to try things like goatskin. I was not so brave. I did, however, enjoy the Kelewele. So yummy! It is fried plantains seasoned with salt, cinnamon (or other spices) and cayenne pepper. I love the combination of salty and sweet, crunchy and smooth and the kick of spice. I plan to make it when I get home.

Our final journey was back to the start. We visited two farms. The first was an onion farm. The three main ingredients that form the base of Ghanaian cuisine are onions, tomatoes and chili peppers. I thought it was cool to visit the farm and reflect on the entire day as a journey from farm to market to table. My favorite part of the onion farm was watching the women separate the bulbs from the stem by using a knife embedded in a wooden plank. I learned all about the care and maintenance of onions and about the farming techniques used. I also learned about the market for onions. We then drove to a rice farm. Rice has only recently become a staple crop in Ghana. Most of the younger generation prefers it. It was awesome to see the bright blue sky and the fresh, green and gold rice stalks. I also got to hold some rice kernels. In the fields, there were several children cawing loudly to scare the birds away.

On the way back to the ship, the onion farmer gave us a giant sack of red onions. We thanked him profusely but we couldn't enjoy them on the ship because of security. Some of the Ghanaians taught us a song and the whole ride back consisted of loud singing, clapping and dancing. It was really special. Once we got home, I had to say goodbye, which was pretty sad. I was excited to get on the ship again, but I would miss the wonderful connections I made with these students from across the world. After this experienced, I realized that we weren't all that different, reminding me again of the interconnectedness and smallness of the world. The whole lab was wonderful, and I learned so much. I hope that I can spend time with Annalisa again in the future, whether it be in Ghana or whether it be her visiting me in California or wherever I end up.

5) Random Adventures, Thoughts and Reflections

I know that this isn't a particular experience, but I wanted to comment a little on some other random things that happened. I promise, it won't be too long. While in Ghana, we got to stay in a resort on the beach. It was truly a beautiful and exciting place. Every morning I would sit near the ocean, watching the sky and breathing in the scent of the ocean. The humidity and warm ocean water made me forget sometimes where I was. I now see this as good and bad. It was great staying in this resort because I felt comfortable and safe eating the foods. The water was purified, so I didn't have to worry about parasites. I must say that this resort is the best hotel I have stayed in on Semester at Sea thus far. However, I feel that staying in the resort limited me as well. Spending time at this place separated us from the average Ghanaian. The resort was far away from residential areas. We were isolated and I think in that respect, we missed out a little bit.

The resort had a crocodile pond, a golf course, coconut trees, horses, plantain trees, the ocean, a pool, a bar, a restaurant, a kid pool, some men selling handicrafts, a gift shop, a baby monkey, some rabbits, more parrots and an unidentifiable animal. It was an exciting place, and I loved exploring it. The rooms were also large, comfortable, and clean. One of my favorite moments at the resort was walking down to the sand in the black night, and looking up and seeing so many beautiful, bright stars. The crashing of the waves, warm air, and cloudless sky made it close to magical. I thought then about all of my loved ones, friends and family across the world who would look up at the same sky, but a sky that was so distant from this one.

I learned several different things about Ghanaian culture. The first was that elders are highly respected and revered for their wealth of knowledge. While elders are respected in America, I felt that it was completely different here. I think that sometimes we take them for granted and miss out on the opportunity to learn from them. I have found so many times that advice from my Mom has turned out to be correct and well-founded, though I am often reluctant to admit it. English is the official language of Ghana, but local languages are still widely spoken. I was most uncomfortable when I would walk by and the people would say 'white person'. Another surprising thing was hearing hisses and kissy noises while walking through market areas and near shops. Before arriving in Ghana, we learned that these things were not meant to be rude but are used instead to get your attention. When I actually heard it, I had to learn to be okay with it. One of the most culturally shocking moments occurred when our guide talked to us about polygamy. In America, it is illegal in most places to practice polygamy or polyandry. I didn't know how to handle it at first. He discussed it so casually and told us that it is a part of their culture. Having multiple wives is a sign of status. I realize now I would have loved to hear from a woman about it, but I didn't get the chance to. He said that a man could have as many wives as he wants but that he had to be wealthy enough to provide equally for them. Before marrying another, he had to have his first wife's approval. She usually agrees because it is culturally abnormal to say no. I found another instance of religious pluralism here. Most Ghanaians practice Christianity, though some also practice Islam. The Christian church only recognizes one marriage between a husband and wife. The husband can still attend church with multiple wives, but the church does not recognize them. In order to marry other wives, the man must go through traditional ceremonies. This blending shows the uniqueness of Ghanaian culture.

While spending time in Ghana, I did my best to avoid taking pictures of people. I only took limited pictures on the bus rides. I did this out of cultural respect. I wanted to avoid becoming a 'slum tourist', or one who just visits a country to see how the other half lives, with no intention of learning anything or digging deeper. Witnessing the poverty was hard for me. The people seemed to have joy though, and I realized that this is because their conditions are a reality. I cannot stand there as a Westerner and see them as primitive or having lives that are empty and harsh. I have no right to look down on them. I realized that my definition of deprived did not necessarily match up with their definition of it. Perhaps they saw me, a white American, wrapped up in a world full of technology, without the true human connection that comes through meaningful conversation and shared experiences. I saw all Ghanaians as having a full life, not one without struggle, but one full of blessings. My visit in Ghana challenged me to adopt that anthropological lens and to try and take on their perspectives of what it means to be Ghanaian or what it means to be American. When something was different, or made me uncomfortable, I started to see it as an opportunity to learn something new and to view my own culture in a more critical way. For instance, I was at first very very uncomfortable with the open elimination I saw throughout my experience. I soon realized that to them, it is a natural part of life, and you shouldn't be ashamed of it. I then looked at Americans and realized how private and embarrassed we are about it. Eventually, I was able to accept it and to not let it affect me so much or change my views of the culture. In regards to picture taking, I thought it was amusing that a sort of double standard existed. Most Ghanaians get really upset if you take their picture without asking, as I soon realized when other students were yelled at for doing so. At the same time, we would pass other people on canoes that snapped pictures of us without asking for permission. I guess I understand it though. They Ghanaians don't want us to make their lifestyle publicized or for us to gain profit off of them. I always made sure to ask before taking any photos of a shop's goods or people. One of the other guides told us that we should focus less on taking photographs of people we don't know and to instead talk to a local and make a connection. Making a connection is far more lasting and meaningful than a random photo.

As you can see, my time in Ghana was truly an adventure. I had a wonderful time and it is one of my favorite ports because it challenged me to be a better person. I learned a lot about my own culture and allowed myself to experience things I wouldn't have before. I kept an open mind and talked more with the locals. This port was so different, and therefore, I find it to be invaluable. The people and places I visited were so interesting. I got to practice bartering a little more, and I feel like I am finally grasping it. Ghana will always have a really special place in my heart. After all, it is, by historical definition, home sweet home.

-Jessica

Rubber Plantations and small city area