Semester At Sea

Sunday, November 10, 2013

Animals and Adventures in South Africa

Hi Readers!

How are you all? I am doing pretty well! I have been very busy during this long, oceanic stretch, but have also had plenty of time for fun and relaxation. We have been at sea for 11 days now. We are two days from arriving in Argentina, and I cannot wait to be there. During the crossing on the Atlantic, I haven't seen much land. It will be a pleasant sight when I do spot it, and the image comes to mind of a pirate in the lookout region on the ship, yelling out "Land Ho!' and the excited buzz of crew members. That is what it is like for us. Even so, being out in the middle of the ocean has been amazing. The sunsets have been breathtaking and I have enjoyed the views. The ocean itself has been both calm and rocky, depending on the day. Right now we are sailing through a rainstorm, so the waves are a bit choppy, but nothing major. Weather is not a good indicator of ocean swells, though. Earlier this week it was clear outside, the sun was shining, but the swells were giant and it was hard to get around.

Since we left South Africa, there have been several cool events happening on the ship. The first was Halloween. It was definitely an interesting experience. I wore a split P costume and several other students donned a creative costume to celebrate. Otherwise, there were no indicators that a holiday was occurring, save for two food art pieces that featured Jack o Lanterns and squash. Halloween was a study day on the ship, so I did spend a lot of my day doing just that. I also registered for classes next semester at CSU. Overall, I am pretty happy with my final semester schedule. It was sad thinking that this would be the last time I would register for classes for a couple years, or ever. Definitely a bittersweet moment! I am excited to come home, but sad about the prospect of leaving this amazing place I call home. The other thing I did was hand out candy to the children on the ship. There are 22 of them and I loved their costumes.

The next big event was Sea Olympics. On the ship, the residence halls are divided into seas. In total, there are nine different seas. Our sea is Bering and it is the largest on the ship. My event was a hula-hoop competition where you had to pass a hula-hoop around the circle without breaking hands. It was a lot more challenging than I anticipated. The whole day was a lot of fun. We all got to bond with our seas and work as a team and also created more ship wide unity. Our team ended up coming in 6^th place, just two points behind 5^th and 10 behind first place. Some other competitions included a frozen T-shirt contest, lip sync, synchronized swimming, spoons, spades, tug of war, ping-pong, volleyball and so much more. The spirit on the ship was immense, and it was hard to think about homework that day. All I wanted to do was go around to events and enjoy the friendly competition and team spirit.

Another fun thing happening on the ship now is AsSASsins. So far, I haven't been killed, but who knows, I could be next. It is pretty fun to see people trying to look at the photos on the wall to see who their target is and then devising plans to find them, follow them and get them alone. Almost 300 people signed up and you can assassinate people in port as well as on the ship.

After Sea Olympics, we had the student talent show. That was also an amazing experience and I soon realized how much talent we have on the ship. Most of the acts were singers. My two favorite acts were the most comedic. One of them was the Resident Directors doing a parody of the 12 Days of Christmas song and adapting it to ship life. The second was another parody by SASers that joked about ship life. It was great and my sides literally split from it. My roommate also performed a really cool dance. It was a fusion of salsa and ballet. The whole night was fun, but getting a seat in the Union was another story. Beforehand, they were not letting people in; so congested lines began to form. At one point, the dean cracked the door and everyone pushed and shoved towards the door, only to realize it wasn't time to go in. Normally, when a big event happens, they let people in early. Anyway, it was a mess and when we were let in, it felt like Black Friday at the mall. We barely got seats and I ended up kneeling behind a couch.

Those were the major highlights of the past 12 days. In between I have been to several amazing presentations about a wide range of topics like post graduation or cultural ones on Argentina. I have also participated in trivia with my ship family and trivia games with my own group of friends. Ship life lately has been sort of monotonous with the food and classes, so those presentations add spice and interest to the experience.

I can't believe that my time in Africa is over. I have to say that my favorite port thus far has been South Africa. I had an amazing experience there. It was not the most intense experience I have had, but I found value in it through the fun and connections I made. It was not as challenging as Ghana was for me. Cape Town could easily be mistaken for a city in my home state. The weather when we arrived was temperate and amazing. It was sunny, in the mid 60s, with a light breeze. I got to watch the sunrise the day we arrived, which was spectacular. What makes Cape Town special, in my opinion is the presence of giant mountains behind a city. It was kind of like Denver, but much more pronounced. I loved it immediately and was fascinated by the clouds that seemed to creep down from Table Mountain and disappear, as it got lower to the ground. Cape Town is also unique in that it has the largest noticeable and pronounced gap between the rich and poor. As we drove to our field lab, one side of the road had beautiful affluent looking homes with high walls and barbed wire, overlooking the white sand and turquoise water. On the other side of the road was a township. The homes were very different there and appeared to be more ramshackle. If I have one regret from South Africa, it is that I did not get the chance to visit a township. I guess it just gives me reason to return, and soon!

Here are the four things I loved about my time in South Africa- leaving out so many other wonderful things in the interest of a more succinct blog. :)

1) Food

I cannot talk about South Africa without mentioning the food. I have to say that it is some of the best I have had this whole trip. I loved it! I didn't know what to expect but I was happily surprised the whole time. The first food I had was bobotie pie, which is like Shepherd's pie but with an egg layer instead of mashed potatoes. It was really delicious and I loved it. It was sweet from the thin custard and from the meat itself. The pie was served alongside yellow rice and was accompanied by a thin crisp. It was a very balanced and composed dish. The second food experience I had that is worth mentioning was when I tasted a passion fruit Popsicle. For those who do not know me, I have this obsession with passion fruit. I love it! When I saw this Popsicle in the ice cream case I could not resist. It was so delicious and refreshing and I had five throughout my trip on the safari! I really wish we had these in the US. The next experience I had was tasting ostrich! I decided to be adventurous at a lodge and try some of the wild game. My favorite was the ostrich. It tasted like steak, but much richer. Ostrich is a healthy alternative to beef because it has low amounts of saturated fat. I loved the sear on it! I think we can learn a lot from South Africans about a healthy diet. Most of the other meals I had were full of variety and everything I tried was delicious. The only problem I had with the food was the eating times. Lunch is usually very light. Dinner was a lot later than I was used to and several times we ate around 7:30 or 8 PM. On the ship I have been eating dinner at 5:30, so you can see why that would be a problem for me. Luckily, I had plenty of snacks with me :) Also, while I was in South Africa, I had two pizzas! One of them was from a mall, but it was far from typical mall fare I am used to in the US. It was fresh, hot and delicious! My tummy was very happy!

2) Game Drives

Another thing I cannot avoid talking about in regards to South Africa are the game drives! I was lucky enough to go on three of them as a part of a four-day field program. The first one took place in Addo National Park. It had recently rained, and our guide warned us that animal sightings might be few and far between. I guess we got lucky though, because we saw two of the Big Five animals. For those of you who don't know, the Big Five are animals that were considered in the past to be the hardest animals to hunt. It had nothing to do with size. Before we saw those animals, we passed by a small group of Kudu antelope. I thought these animals were really cool and they are my favorite antelope. The males had horns that twisted and each twist represented 3 years of age. The females did not have horns because they could use the bushes for cover. Addo National Park was not what I was expecting in regards to a safari. There seemed to be thick bushes everywhere and it was super green. My impression of a safari was open topped vehicle in the dry savannah with animals galore. Instead, at Addo you had to look hard for the animals. The next thing we saw on that trip was a dung beetle! It was huge and our guide pretended to eat it, saying that they are a delicacy. We drove for a while and stopped whenever our guide had something to show us. He was full of information about everything we saw and was super funny. We saw some turtles, a male and a female. He joked that we interrupted their private moment. When we stopped the car, the male took off quickly into the bushes. We all agreed that these turtles were especially fast! The next thing we saw was the buffalo- one of the Big Five members. Our guide said that he would gladly take on a rhino or an elephant before a buffalo. He told us that they are extremely strong and intentional in their charges. From the looks of the one we saw, I wouldn't want to cross him either. After the buffalo, we saw movement in the distance, which turned out to be our second Big Five member, the elephant. There was a baby, a younger male and an older female in this small clearing. It was so cool to see wild elephants, not trapped behind bars in a zoo. You realize how vulnerable you are and you admire them. It is such a different experience than visiting a zoo. We watched them for a long time and then passed a warthog that we named Pumba. They are a lot uglier than I thought they would be! Pumba is a lot cuter in the Lion King!! The last few things we saw were Egyptian geese (they looked more like ducks), a black-backed Jackal, more warthogs and some more Kudu. It was a successful drive, and lasted about two hours.

The second drive was one of my favorites and it was definitely an experience for several reasons. One of my favorite things was the game drive vehicle itself. It resembled the jeeps on the Indiana Jones ride in Disneyland. The drive was bumpy, just like the ride. There were also black bars on top of the seats and seat back pockets. It was cool. Garden Route was a lot more like the safaris I had imagined. It had plains and little brush. There were also hills and all kinds of plants scattered around. Before we left, we were given warm ponchos with fleece lining on the inside, because it looked like the sky was going to open up. After passing the electric fencing, we entered the park. All around we saw antelope. There were springbok and stembok. We also saw wildebeest. Near the antelope, there was a male ostrich munching on some grass. Little did I know I would be eating his relative that night! Haha. It was really cool because we got really close to the animals. After checking out the antelope, we saw rhinos in the distance and took off in that direction. Rhinos were number 3 on the big five list. At Garden Route they had two females and one male. My favorite part was hearing the rhinos munch on the grass. You could hear the tearing. A small gray bird followed them, grabbing any stray bugs that appeared. The rhinos also got very close to the game drive vehicle. I could almost reach out and touch them, but I had no desire to do so! It is sad to think that they are being senselessly killed for their horns. I think it is important to protect this majestic animal. Near the rhinos, there was a large herd of buffalo. When we were ready to leave we had some difficulty because the rhinos and buffalo kept walking in our path. It was slow going, but eventually we made it through without incident.

After a bumpy ride for a while, we found a hare. It reminded me of my rabbit at home, and I got a little homesick just then. Our guide then drove to the other side of the park so we could catch the lions. In order to get there, we had to drive over electric netting on the ground. This is to prevent the lions from accessing the animals on the other side. The sky was getting darker. We stopped to look at some birds and then spotted the lions in the distance. We stopped pretty far from the lionesses because they were in a hard to reach spot on a hill. They were feeding on a carcass! All of a sudden I saw something whizz down from the sky. A second later, a piece of ice that was ¼ inch thick hit my roommate! A few seconds later, we were in the midst of a hailstorm. I was surprised because it was not very cold. Soon after, fat, cold droplets began to pour down. It was a torrential, chilly rain and our faces got soaked! We did our best to shield from the rain, but it was hard to do in an open top vehicle. The runoff from my poncho soaked the sides of my capris!

Luckily, the rain calmed after five minutes or so. I was the one to spot the male lion on a hill. It was hard to get photos because he was so far away. We started to head back, but when I turned back I saw other vehicles really close to the male in the distance. We convinced our guide to turn around and drive over there. So, we got to see the male lion up close and personal. We had to constantly back up the vehicle though to keep our distance. He was so cool and a beautiful animal! We had seen the fourth animal on the big five list. Unfortunately, I did not see the 5^th animal- the leopard. They were present at Garden Route, along with Hippos, but they were hard to spot.

The last game drive was also fun and was at Garden Route. That morning we saw the rhinos again, along with zebra, springbok, eland and giraffes. One of the giraffes was munching on a bone. That surprised me. There was also a female and a baby. That drive was much shorter because we had to get on the road so we would be back in time to see Desmond Tutu. Altogether, the game drives were successful and I saw a lot of cool animals up close. I would go back in a minute, especially to Garden Route!

3) The Zip Line

Part of my field program included a morning of zip lining through the Tsitsikamma forest. It was a fantastic experience and I had a blast. There were ten sections and it took over an hour to get our whole group through all of them. Each section had varying lengths and speeds. It was such a cool moment to fly through the forest, letting my cares go as the wind hit my face. On the third section, I stopped part way through to look down from the highest point on the course. It was awesome. The only wildlife I noticed was a chameleon that I named Chamillionaire. Haha. He was super cool! The zip line itself was constructed with protection of the forest in mind. The cables are wrapped around the trees but do not touch the bark due to rubber pads. There are no screws or bolts in the trees. Instead, the system they have allows them to let more slack on the cables every three years or so. After having a blast, I made the hike up to the car. It was quite a hike!!! I got some exercise and I loved breathing in the fresh mountain air. It was also a spectacular day, perfect for spending time outdoors!

The company of this zip line is also present in Costa Rica. A portion of our entrance fee went to the children of AIDS. It was cool to hear that the staff there regularly volunteered with that organization. After the zip line I purchased a DVD of the experience. I will always remember it!

4) The Elephant Sanctuary

This experience might be my favorite of all the others I had. We had the opportunity to spend time with elephants at a special sanctuary. This sanctuary housed elephants that had been orphaned because of poaching or because they were caught in snares as infants and their mothers left them. The leader of the elephant herd was Marula, and I interacted with her the most. First, we walked hand in trunk with the elephants. When my turn came, I was assigned to the boss lady. You had to put your hand in a C shape and hold it behind you. The elephant would then place its trunk in your hand and you would walk along with them. Marula decided she would be the leader by sort of shoving my hand and indicating she wanted me to go faster. She had the best personality, and I had to laugh. After that, my hand was a bit snotty and dusty, but it was a unique experience I wouldn't trade for the world.

The handlers then let us touch the elephants and feel the different parts like the skin, ears, tail, tusk and feet. I think the coolest thing besides the rough skin was the tail. The bristles on it felt like the bristles on a plastic broom. It was not what I was expecting! The skin was also interesting. It was rough but much thinner than I expected. I liked the feet because they were squishy to the touch. It was super fun to get up close and personal with the elephants. We also got to see inside their mouths!

The next part of our interaction included a 10-minute ride on their backs. I was super excited for this portion! I didn't know what to expect. When it was my turn, I had difficulty getting on Marula, especially since I have short legs. It was an amusing struggle. The ride itself was like riding a horse, but you had a wider stance and you could feel the backbone underneath you. It was such a cool moment to think that I was riding an elephant, in Africa. Marula stopped several times and even started to jog at one point. That was disconcerting, but overall it was a great time. Another experience I will always remember. Throughout the day, I found myself loving elephants even more!

We also got to feed the elephants as a thank you for letting us interact with them. Our guide told us that if you give Marula only a few apple pieces, she would hold out her trunk until you give her as much as she thinks she deserves. Like I said, quite the personality! I thought it was hilarious! J The last thing we did was have an anatomy lesson in an outdoor-classroom. It was pretty fun and I learned a lot. One thing I appreciated about the experience was that the handler's loved the elephants, and it was evident that the elephants were happy and well taken care of. If the elephants did not want to do something, they did not have to. It was clear that free choice was present, and I think it is extremely admirable. The elephant needs come first, and their happiness does as well. It is a sanctuary after all. I loved my time there, and it was truly special!

5) Cheetahs and Reptiles!

The last cool thing that I did that is worth its own section is our trip to see the cheetahs and the reptiles at Garden Route. The lodge has a cheetah sanctuary area within the vicinity of the resort. There were five cheetahs total and each had their own cage, save for two. I was lucky enough to film and witness the two cheetahs playing with each other. They really are powerful and beautiful creatures and they run fast!! Another cheetah was sleepy, and I got some cute pictures of him sleeping. It was really fun and I was excited to see the cheetahs. I did not know that we would get to see them. They are in the sanctuary to prevent inbreeding. We spent about 15 minutes there and then walked up to the Reptile Center. There, I got to see several crocodiles, a giant turtle, a baby turtle and some lizards. I also saw a python, boa constrictor, a green mamba and the deadly black mamba. It was definitely cool, and I enjoyed it.

Of course, I had many more exciting experiences in South Africa. The field lab I participated in was really valuable and I got to apply a lot of things I had learned in class. That is one of many things I love about Semester at Sea. What you learn in class is useful in port and you get so much more out of the class! Another short visit we did was to Storm's River Mouth at the suspension bridge. It was really beautiful and another hike to get there. I couldn't get over how amazingly beautiful South Africa was. Everywhere I went I was amazed. In Cape Town, I visited a mall and was shocked by how Western it was. It caused me to forget I was in Africa, with its designer stores and two huge movie theaters inside. I made sure to remind myself of where I was, and also to think about the serious issues that South Africa still faces today. Even so, I want to return there as soon as I can! I can't wait to go back, or even study there.

I mentioned earlier in the post that we had to hurry back to see Archbishop Desmond Tutu. He is a Semester at Sea alum and for our 50^th Anniversary he was visiting the ship to talk to us. We were able to make the five-hour drive to make it back 2pm. I got pretty good seats in the Union and we waited for his speech at 3PM. I must admit that I didn't know much about him before his speech. When he entered the room, there was a standing ovation to greet him. He was this adorable old man that I immediately liked. His speech was extremely powerful! It left me in awe and admiration and almost brought me to tears. He is such a charismatic speaker! He is also really really funny. He made jokes throughout the speech. I absolutely loved his laugh. The main message of his speech was that as Semester at Sea students, we have the power to let the world know about world issues and as young people we can affect the moral climate of the world. He said that he was blown away by us and other Semester at Sea students for all that we do to help others. I think that was the most amazing compliment he could give. All I could think of afterwards was WOW.

I guess that is about it for now. I had an exam today and I am glad it is over with. Now I can focus on the upcoming port. Right before getting there I think about what I want to get out of it and make a list of to dos. I am most looking forward to amazing food! :) I am so excited to explore Argentina, and to continue my journey into South America! Until next time!

-Jessica

Photos in next entry! :)

Thursday, October 24, 2013

Greetings From Ghana!

Hello Readers!

I apologize for not updating my blog sooner! Things have been pretty crazy on the ship lately. I just finished up my midterms and have been catching up on other assignments. Right now we are docked off the coast of Namibia for refueling. It has been nice to have a still ship for the day. The past few days since Ghana have been rough and I have been seasick a few times. I realize that this experience has its ups and its downs! Overall though, I love it and I hope to return to the ship again after this experience. I joked with some of my friends that we should come back on the 100-year anniversary. I will be 72 or 73 depending on which voyage it would be. I don't know if that will happen or not, but I do know I want to be involved in SAS. My life will never be the same and I want others to have that opportunity as well!

This week has been full of fun and adventure. We crossed the equator and became shellbacks on Neptune Day. We also had our Halloween Dance a few weeks early. We are heading towards South Africa and we will be there on Saturday. I am so excited! Part of me just wants to be on land but the greater part is looking forward to more memories and life changing moments. I will post a separate entry about Neptune Day and other random happenings because I want to focus on my experience in Ghana.

My time in Ghana was life changing. While there, I faced both surprises and challenges. I grew a lot and saw things that made me uncomfortable at times. Spending time in this country really allowed me to look through an anthropological lens and to accept the culture for what it was, rather than seeing it as strange or weird. I learned to have a relativistic attitude and to avoid looking at a practice or happening as right or wrong and to instead see it as different, in the most beautiful way possible. You grow through challenges. While fun times are always great, you don't always get a complete picture, especially if your focus is on sight seeing or partying. Ghana was so different from anything I have ever seen or been exposed to. After this experience, I learned how diverse the world is, but also how small it is. There were so many great moments and stories I have from Ghana. As per usual, I will focus on five main things that happened. I look forward to sharing more when I return back to the states. To write all about Ghana would take over 11 typed pages, as I realized from the email I sent to my family! I will now summarize it for you and I must say some things I will mention in this blog are things I experienced that made me sad or uncomfortable, but I think they are important to mention. It was part of the adventure I had there.

1) Kakum National Park

One of my favorite experiences in Ghana was my adventure on the canopy walkway. It took us a few hours to drive there from the resort, but it gave me plenty of time to get to know other people on the field program with me. I made some great new connections and friends and this field program had a lot of bus time! I think we were on the bus for about 15 hours in three days. Anyway, on the way there it began to rain and we were all worried that it would affect our ability to participate on the walkway. Luckily, the rain stopped by the time we got there. Our guide talked to us along the way and explained that Kakum National Park was only a fraction of rainforest that used to exist. He was a very informative, fun, and opinionated guy. I loved that! He told us from the get go that he would say what he thought, true to the Ghanaian spirit. He said that humans have this innate trait to destroy things. I guess it is pretty true when you think about history and events happening today. It was disheartening but I felt lucky to be able to visit the rainforest.

Kakum was beautiful. It was overcast but still very humid and hot. The first thing I noticed were the brightly colored lizards scuttling about. They were black and bright orange and after they ran for a bit they would stop and do a little push up. It was amusing. Once our group was together we met up with our guide who would walk us up to the canopy. We were there pretty early, and there was no one else around. The climb up was pretty difficult because it was steep and being on the ship hasn't really improved my fitness! I am definitely out of shape. Haha. While hiking up, we passed a thick trail of large ants. We were told not to step on them because apparently they are pretty aggressive ants. He also told us about rainforest conservation and about the walkway. He made sure to tell us that they checked the ropes every day and changed them every 6 months and that there was no way they would break. Still, I was a little nervous and running on a bit of adrenaline. I made it a goal to walk across all seven bridges, even with my slight fear of heights.

We divided into two groups of twenty and then into groups of five to walk across at one time. When I first stepped on I grabbed onto the sides for dear life. The walkway itself was so narrow you could only put one foot in front of the other. When others came on the bridge behind you, the bridge would move up and down. It was an adventure! Looking below me, I could see the treetops and the thick green leaves. I slowly made my way along the bridges and to the lookout points. Below me, the plank creaked and wobbled. When I got to the lookout points, I took a few moments to look around and absorb the beauty around me. It was amazing! The fog only added to the mystery and mood of the place. I couldn't get over the fact that I was actually in a rainforest… in Ghana. It never sunk in that I was across the world from home. Standing there, with the forest below me and the vast sky above me, was a very special moment. I realized how small I was. It was almost like a new world and it was so quiet. You could hear some birds in the distance, but everything was pretty still. Before entering the park, I saw a sign that said 'leave nothing but your footprints.' I thought that was pretty cool. I realized that I was a visitor and that I should do my best to be quiet and to not impose. It was hard to do so because we were all so excited and chattering as we walked across the canopy.

I am happy to say I made it all the way! I looked at fear in the face and tested my limits. It was truly a fun and exciting experience. Right after I stepped off the canopy walkway, we heard the gentle patter of rain. Soon enough, that gentle patter turned into a heavy slap of drops on leaves. The rain didn't reach us right away because the forest shielded us. We all stood there a moment to reflect on the fact that it was raining… in a rainforest… in Ghana. I love the sound of rain, and I took a few moments to stand in it and listen. It's the little things you experience that turn out to mean the most. Such can be said about my experience on Semester at Sea. Once we got back to the main area, I passed a sign that said 'You survived!' and it made me chuckle a little. After this experience, I realized the importance of protecting the rainforests. Because of deforestation, species are being eradicated. We need to protect them for future generations. The natural beauty of the planet is important. I can't imagine a world without its wonders.

2) Nzulezu and my ride in a dugout canoe

One of my most interesting adventures so far on Semester at Sea was riding in an open dugout canoe down a river to the water village of Nzulezu. I have never ridden in a dugout canoe and I was excited to see what it would be like. I was also worried we would tip over. After enjoying an amazing lunch at a Spanish tapas restaurant and after meeting the African gray parrot, we walked down a wooden bridge to reach the canoes. We were all sporting bright orange and all of us were covered in multiple layers of clothing. This was to protect from the sun, to prevent mosquito bites, and to be culturally sensitive. I got in a group with 8 other individuals and we piled into the largest canoe. Our guide was in our canoe and he sat in front. I was comforted by the fact that our canoe didn't have any water in the bottom and we didn't see our driver scooping out water like we did in some of the other ones. We sat on the wooden slots and after everyone was situated, they pushed us off the sand. All of us girls squealed a little because it felt strange in the canoe at first. It took some getting used to. The feeling of instability was more disconcerting than anything else.

We had a great time floating down the gentle river. It was completely quiet, save for a few bird cries and our driver slapping his paddle in the river to propel us forward. Occasionally another canoe would pass us and we would have a race of sorts. Towards the middle of the hour-long ride I got to paddle. That was a lot of fun! The surroundings were so amazing and peaceful! I really got the chance to relax, absorb and reflect as the lily pads floated by. I also had some great conversations with my peers about the future after an experience like this. Without Internet access or phone service, we were forced to socialize and talk about life. I personally love that about Semester at Sea. When I first arrived, I felt the pangs of lost technology and I had to get used to not going on Facebook. It was really hard and I would type it in my browser only to be denied of it. The worst part was when I received emails about group invites or messages that I couldn't actually see. With time, I came to appreciate the disconnection. I realized how dependent I was on technology and then came to terms with the fact that life is so exciting here that I have no reason to be on Facebook or Pininterest. If I did have Internet access, I would have less opportunity to absorb my surroundings, socialize with my peers, meet locals and just experience the world around me. Now I hardly think about Facebook and when I do get Internet access in port, I use it to call my parents on Skype. Homesickness outweighs desire to attend to social dramas occurring on Facebook. Not being able to text has also reformed me a little. When I return, I want to try and avoid depending on technology so much, except for important things like calling loved ones or looking at the news. One thing I have noticed is that over time, I am more concerned with world events and am seeing parallels on the news channels and the countries we have visited.

Eventually, our canoe passed a small gate and entered a vast area that looked like a lake, with palms and other vegetation lining the sides. In the distance, I could see Nzulezu. Our guide told us that Nzulezu means 'village on the water.' After a while, we pulled up alongside the village and stepped into a cultural experience all its own. Most houses were constructed with thin wooden slats and the walkway, with larger wooden planks. The village itself seemed pretty small and the people seemed very proud of their homes. This was evident by the air they had about them and during our meeting with the village chief. Children drumming and dancing in really beautiful and traditional garb greeted us all. The drums filled the air in a vibrant and exciting way. The children had this life to them, and they were full of beautiful smiles. They escorted us to the village meeting area where their chief told us the history of the village and answered our questions. We learned that over 600 people live in Nzulezu but that some live more on the mainland. Many community members travel there when it gets windy. The people commute to work outside the village via canoes, and cart goods into the community using canoes. I witnessed religious pluralism here. The community had a Christian church but the chief also discussed traditional practices that are used. This blending just made the community more unique. Our guide told us that we went to Nzulezu to see how the rural people live. Their houses were on stilts over the river. Poverty was not as evident here, but I did notice it. The chief said that his people love their village and their way of life. After the presentation, I got to take a picture with the chief. That was a special moment as was receiving his blessing for great success and accomplishment in the future.

We then spent the next hour and a half canoeing back towards the restaurant. It took longer because we were going upstream. As the afternoon sun appeared, it created the opportunity for great photos. It also cooled down a little, which was welcomed with open arms by all of us. I thought this whole experience was unique because we got to see a lifestyle that was different from all the urban areas we passed. By urban, I don't mean high-rise buildings or evidence of globalization. In Ghana, urban means lots of people living in one area. Driving through Ghana so much helped me realize this and I must admit that this port is different from anything I have ever seen in my entire life. Spending time in the canoe was a really fun and rewarding experience. We got to talk more to our guide and to our driver about different plants or sights along the way. They were both more than ready to share all that they could. I appreciated that so very much. This was my first adventure in Ghana, and I realized at the end that it was one of my favorites.

3) Cape Coast Castle

One of the most moving and powerful experiences I had in Ghana was visiting the slave dungeons in Cape Coast. The day of our trip, our guide made sure to talk to us about the history of the transatlantic slave trade. He told us that it was a serious trip, and was not to be taken lightly. He told us about the ocean currents that made the trade possible, and about the consequences of such a journey. He explained that 9 million enslaved Africans passed through the castles and that most Africans were captured by fellow Africans, not by the Europeans that were selling them. Afterwards, our guide told us a story that was particularly moving. It was a narrative by a man who was enslaved in the 1790's. He explained that he was left behind in the village to care for the homes with his sister. They were forcibly captured, bound and taken from their home. One night, they were separated and pried apart from one another. They never saw each other again. I can't even imagine it, and hearing that story really hit home for me.

When we arrived at the castle, we were told that we couldn't take any photographs unless we paid a fee. I ended up forgoing the fee and instead took very detailed notes on the experience and on what I learned. Our first stop in the castle was the male dungeon. We walked down a narrow, steep, stone tunnel down underground. We entered a fairly small room to the right with the only light source being three small slits in the high stonewalls. Our guide told us that up to 150 African males would be confined in this small cell anywhere from 3 to 12 weeks. There wasn't much room to lay down or move freely. There were two shallow gutters running through the cell that served as transport for bodily excrements. Oftentimes, people were forced to sleep beside their own excrement, which promoted the spread of disease. Each man was shackled according to his behavior. Some had their wrists shackled to another and others were shackled by their feet. Still others had arm and ankle shackles. When it was time to transport them to the ships, the jailer would escort them to the deep and vast underground tunnel.

We walked next to a room near the underground tunnel that had a priest dressed in traditional garb. He preformed a traditional ceremony and then blessed us with academic success. After watching this, we walked out of the dungeon and viewed the two plaques outside the cell. One of them was created by Ghanaian chiefs, promising to never let history repeat itself. The second one certified that President Barack Obama had visited the castle in July of 2009. We then spent some time in the courtyard, looking at the views and the cannons. The cannons were used to ward off pirates and the Dutch, as well as other enemies of the British. I was shocked by the contrast between the beauty of my surroundings and the horror and terror of the past that existed within the castle.

Next, we peeked down into the underground tunnel, which seemed to be pretty deep. You couldn't even see the bottom. We entered a room that had the tunnel sealed off so we could see the size. It would be impossible to escape. Our next stop was the female cell, where women would be confined if they refused to be concubines to the soldiers. The cell was quite small and had a narrow slit for food to go through. Most women were kept in the female dungeon. It closely resembled the male dungeon but was a little smaller and was above ground. We learned that if children were born, they were given Christian names. Oftentimes, they would be confined as well. We walked through the door of no return and out to the ocean. Outside the castle, there were countless fishing boats and activities occurring. After getting some fresh air and a welcomed ocean breeze, we walked through the door of return and to the condemned cell. This is where slaves were sent if they misbehaved. This cell was really small, and pitch black. It isn't hard to imagine that death soon followed entry into this confinement. Our guide said the soldiers starved them to show an example to others in the castle.

Our last stop on the tour was the governor's house. It had wooden floors, white plaster walls, and small blue shutters. The views were spectacular, which again created some cognitive conflict for me, knowing the horrible things that happened there.

This experience offered a unique insight into a sad chapter in our history. It exposed me to a new perspective and showed me that it is important to learn about the good as well as the bad. Even though it was painful to hear about the conditions, I am glad I had the opportunity to learn. My understanding prior to this visit was limited in that it only encompassed an understanding of the middle passage and the plantations the enslaved peoples worked at. I did not know much about how they were captured and transported across the seas. This experience allowed me to learn more about the past. It is easy enough to put slavery on the back burner in this day and age and to see it as something so far in the past and archaic. In reality, so many other forms of slavery exist today. The battle is far from over.

The final thing I wanted to mention occurred on the way back to the ship. One of the greatest moments of this program was when our guide compared us to a salad. He said that each of us is a vegetable, with a different background. We are beautiful in our own unique sense but when you bring it together with all the other vegetables, you make something so beautiful and delicious. He told us we needed to see each other as one people. He explained that we are descended from a common ancestor and we need to see each other as one person rather than as us and them. He told us to educate others to create a better world and that we all need to work together. It was quite moving! I realized how true that statement was though. Another man showed me one of Ghana's main symbols, a bird. He said that it symbolized home sweet home and that if you wear it, you acknowledge that we all come from the same ancestors and that Africa is always home. He then said, ' We are one." It was beautiful in its simplicity, profoundness and truth.

4) Field Lab in Tema

My last day in Ghana was spent on my field lab for Anthropology of Food. I was so excited for it, and it turned out to be my favorite lab so far. We met up at the gangway in the morning to meet up with Ghanaian university students majoring in Agriculture and Food Science. It was during this time that I was introduced to our host for the day, Annalisa. She was so kind, welcoming, and vibrant. After meeting her, I became even more excited for the events of the day. We walked her around the ship and showed her main areas like the dining halls, student union, snack bars, the pool, classrooms and observation deck. We then joined our class to listen to a presentation about Ghanaian food systems, ingredients and cuisine, as well as agriculture. Then we hopped on the bus and headed to the local market. We spent about 45 minutes in the market, walking around and asking numerous questions. Annalisa was very informative and showed us so many interesting and unique things. This market was exciting! They seemed to have everything there, including clothes, fabrics, shoes, plastic containers, fruits, vegetables, beans, seeds, cereal grains, snacks and so much more! Our main focus was on the foods offered, and most of them were easily identified. Others didn't have a translation in English and remained a mystery.

The market was like windy labyrinth and you could easily get lost there. I noticed tons of women balancing giant baskets full of goods on their heads and wheelbarrows hurtling through the narrow walkways. The fruits and vegetables were so colorful! Two of the most interesting items for sale in the market were live, huge snails and goat and cow skin. The butchering area was difficult for me to walk through. There were men wielding giant cleavers on large pieces of meat. It was hot, the flesh was flying and there were flies abound. It showed me that there are cultural differences in the handling of food. The smell was very strong and a little off-putting for me. I realized that in Ghana, nothing goes to waste. I saw all parts of the animal for sale on the wooden slab tables. Meat is highly prized in Ghana, and for a moment I had to redefine my definition of food. Ghanaians often consume goat, and they also have goats as pets. In certain parts of America, it would be blasphemous to consume your pet. I learned that just because something is culturally defined as a nonfood, other cultures might consume it out of necessity and desire to do so. The concept of food, after all, encompasses anything we can digest. With that mindset, it made my experience in Ghana much easier.

The coolest thing I saw in the market was the pounding of the fufu. This calorie dense food is commonly accompanied by stew or soup. It is a mixture of cassava and unripe plantains. The mortar and pestle were wooden and giant! It was cool to see the man throw it up and over and down to pound it while the woman would add ingredients and fold the dough in between pounds.

After the market, we headed to a restaurant that served local foods. I got to try fufu, as well as some other items I had seen at the market. Overall, I realized that Ghanaian cuisine is not my favorite. However, I thought it was valuable to try the foods to gain a complete understanding of the cuisine of Ghana. It was all very spicy, which surprised my palate after two months of bland ship food. The fufu was very thick, doughy and starchy. Some of the other students were adventurous enough to try things like goatskin. I was not so brave. I did, however, enjoy the Kelewele. So yummy! It is fried plantains seasoned with salt, cinnamon (or other spices) and cayenne pepper. I love the combination of salty and sweet, crunchy and smooth and the kick of spice. I plan to make it when I get home.

Our final journey was back to the start. We visited two farms. The first was an onion farm. The three main ingredients that form the base of Ghanaian cuisine are onions, tomatoes and chili peppers. I thought it was cool to visit the farm and reflect on the entire day as a journey from farm to market to table. My favorite part of the onion farm was watching the women separate the bulbs from the stem by using a knife embedded in a wooden plank. I learned all about the care and maintenance of onions and about the farming techniques used. I also learned about the market for onions. We then drove to a rice farm. Rice has only recently become a staple crop in Ghana. Most of the younger generation prefers it. It was awesome to see the bright blue sky and the fresh, green and gold rice stalks. I also got to hold some rice kernels. In the fields, there were several children cawing loudly to scare the birds away.

On the way back to the ship, the onion farmer gave us a giant sack of red onions. We thanked him profusely but we couldn't enjoy them on the ship because of security. Some of the Ghanaians taught us a song and the whole ride back consisted of loud singing, clapping and dancing. It was really special. Once we got home, I had to say goodbye, which was pretty sad. I was excited to get on the ship again, but I would miss the wonderful connections I made with these students from across the world. After this experienced, I realized that we weren't all that different, reminding me again of the interconnectedness and smallness of the world. The whole lab was wonderful, and I learned so much. I hope that I can spend time with Annalisa again in the future, whether it be in Ghana or whether it be her visiting me in California or wherever I end up.

5) Random Adventures, Thoughts and Reflections

I know that this isn't a particular experience, but I wanted to comment a little on some other random things that happened. I promise, it won't be too long. While in Ghana, we got to stay in a resort on the beach. It was truly a beautiful and exciting place. Every morning I would sit near the ocean, watching the sky and breathing in the scent of the ocean. The humidity and warm ocean water made me forget sometimes where I was. I now see this as good and bad. It was great staying in this resort because I felt comfortable and safe eating the foods. The water was purified, so I didn't have to worry about parasites. I must say that this resort is the best hotel I have stayed in on Semester at Sea thus far. However, I feel that staying in the resort limited me as well. Spending time at this place separated us from the average Ghanaian. The resort was far away from residential areas. We were isolated and I think in that respect, we missed out a little bit.

The resort had a crocodile pond, a golf course, coconut trees, horses, plantain trees, the ocean, a pool, a bar, a restaurant, a kid pool, some men selling handicrafts, a gift shop, a baby monkey, some rabbits, more parrots and an unidentifiable animal. It was an exciting place, and I loved exploring it. The rooms were also large, comfortable, and clean. One of my favorite moments at the resort was walking down to the sand in the black night, and looking up and seeing so many beautiful, bright stars. The crashing of the waves, warm air, and cloudless sky made it close to magical. I thought then about all of my loved ones, friends and family across the world who would look up at the same sky, but a sky that was so distant from this one.

I learned several different things about Ghanaian culture. The first was that elders are highly respected and revered for their wealth of knowledge. While elders are respected in America, I felt that it was completely different here. I think that sometimes we take them for granted and miss out on the opportunity to learn from them. I have found so many times that advice from my Mom has turned out to be correct and well-founded, though I am often reluctant to admit it. English is the official language of Ghana, but local languages are still widely spoken. I was most uncomfortable when I would walk by and the people would say 'white person'. Another surprising thing was hearing hisses and kissy noises while walking through market areas and near shops. Before arriving in Ghana, we learned that these things were not meant to be rude but are used instead to get your attention. When I actually heard it, I had to learn to be okay with it. One of the most culturally shocking moments occurred when our guide talked to us about polygamy. In America, it is illegal in most places to practice polygamy or polyandry. I didn't know how to handle it at first. He discussed it so casually and told us that it is a part of their culture. Having multiple wives is a sign of status. I realize now I would have loved to hear from a woman about it, but I didn't get the chance to. He said that a man could have as many wives as he wants but that he had to be wealthy enough to provide equally for them. Before marrying another, he had to have his first wife's approval. She usually agrees because it is culturally abnormal to say no. I found another instance of religious pluralism here. Most Ghanaians practice Christianity, though some also practice Islam. The Christian church only recognizes one marriage between a husband and wife. The husband can still attend church with multiple wives, but the church does not recognize them. In order to marry other wives, the man must go through traditional ceremonies. This blending shows the uniqueness of Ghanaian culture.

While spending time in Ghana, I did my best to avoid taking pictures of people. I only took limited pictures on the bus rides. I did this out of cultural respect. I wanted to avoid becoming a 'slum tourist', or one who just visits a country to see how the other half lives, with no intention of learning anything or digging deeper. Witnessing the poverty was hard for me. The people seemed to have joy though, and I realized that this is because their conditions are a reality. I cannot stand there as a Westerner and see them as primitive or having lives that are empty and harsh. I have no right to look down on them. I realized that my definition of deprived did not necessarily match up with their definition of it. Perhaps they saw me, a white American, wrapped up in a world full of technology, without the true human connection that comes through meaningful conversation and shared experiences. I saw all Ghanaians as having a full life, not one without struggle, but one full of blessings. My visit in Ghana challenged me to adopt that anthropological lens and to try and take on their perspectives of what it means to be Ghanaian or what it means to be American. When something was different, or made me uncomfortable, I started to see it as an opportunity to learn something new and to view my own culture in a more critical way. For instance, I was at first very very uncomfortable with the open elimination I saw throughout my experience. I soon realized that to them, it is a natural part of life, and you shouldn't be ashamed of it. I then looked at Americans and realized how private and embarrassed we are about it. Eventually, I was able to accept it and to not let it affect me so much or change my views of the culture. In regards to picture taking, I thought it was amusing that a sort of double standard existed. Most Ghanaians get really upset if you take their picture without asking, as I soon realized when other students were yelled at for doing so. At the same time, we would pass other people on canoes that snapped pictures of us without asking for permission. I guess I understand it though. They Ghanaians don't want us to make their lifestyle publicized or for us to gain profit off of them. I always made sure to ask before taking any photos of a shop's goods or people. One of the other guides told us that we should focus less on taking photographs of people we don't know and to instead talk to a local and make a connection. Making a connection is far more lasting and meaningful than a random photo.

As you can see, my time in Ghana was truly an adventure. I had a wonderful time and it is one of my favorite ports because it challenged me to be a better person. I learned a lot about my own culture and allowed myself to experience things I wouldn't have before. I kept an open mind and talked more with the locals. This port was so different, and therefore, I find it to be invaluable. The people and places I visited were so interesting. I got to practice bartering a little more, and I feel like I am finally grasping it. Ghana will always have a really special place in my heart. After all, it is, by historical definition, home sweet home.

-Jessica

Rubber Plantations and small city area