Wednesday, September 11, 2013
Photos from Hamburg!
Hallo from Hamburg!
Hello Lovely Readers!
This time I am happy to say that I am posting a blog entry within three days of our last port in Hamburg, Germany. I really pushed to finish my readings and assignments so I would have a chance to journal, Email, and blog. We are now in Antwerp, Belgium and we arrived yesterday around 5 or 6PM. It is definitely difficult to look out the window and see a city that we cannot visit until tomorrow morning. But, we do need to have a certain amount of class days. We also left Hamburg later than I was expecting. I assumed we would leave at 8PM on Sunday but we didn't leave port until 6AM Monday morning. So is ship life. Lots of flexibility is required. Otherwise, things have been going really well here! I am often busy with reading assignments but not so much so that I am missing out on fun events. There is always something going on, whether it is club gatherings, socials, seminars, meetings or meals. I have a field lab the first day, so tomorrow, in Brussels. I will be visiting the World Health Organization and learning about differences in stress sources that exist around the world. I will learn about what factors influence coping skills and how the WHO is forming solutions to combat various global health issues. I am really looking forward to it. The lab will last for about 8 hours and then during the evening I will be spending time with my cabin mate, Laura, and some friends to celebrate her birthday! On Friday Laura and I will be going on the SAS trip to Paris for two nights. I am really excited! We will then meet up with the ship in our fourth port, Le Havre, on Sunday. I will probably spend the day exploring the city. The final day in that port will be spent visiting the Cliffs of Etretat. Anyway, that is what will be happening this weekend. Right now I will talk about my amazing time in Hamburg!
1) Interacting with the Locals
When people think about a city, I am sure a lot would imagine a place with people rushing off to their destinations, always in a hurry. They may also imagine people absorbed in their own bubbles who are inward and not outwardly friendly. Maybe these people would seem unapproachable when you needed to ask for help. At least for me, this is what I imagine when I think of a city. I know my personal vision may be colored because I am from a town, rather than a big city. When I have visited cities like LA or Denver, I have encountered this sort of atmosphere. This is not to diminish the fact that cities are full of diversity, excitement, culture and art. But for the purpose of explaining what Hamburg was for me, I thought it would be worth mentioning my impressions of what a city generally is from my own experiences. I have visited Hamburg before, but that was over five years ago and my memories of it were foggy. One thing that stood out to me about Hamburg was the friendliness of the people I had the chance to interact with. As I walked along the street I would often have a smile on my face and that smile would frequently be returned. People just seemed a lot friendlier here.
When I did interact with people they were kind and helpful. One example was when I was trying to figure out how to get back to the ship using the U-Bahn. I was poring over the map and a man approached me and asked me if I needed help in German. I tried to reply that I didn't speak very much German but then he switched to English. He directed me to the other side and was happy to assist me. I was a little taken aback because I am not used to people approaching me and asking me if I need help with directions in such a friendly tone. I also asked another individual for directions and he was really helpful because our group was somewhat lost. One final example occurred when I visited the Deutsche Post, or the post office. I was sending a larger item and wasn't sure how the process of shipping worked. I was able to find a man who was kind enough to assist me. He got me a box and I started to work on assembling the box and filling out the customs form. One of the other clerks ended up bringing me newspaper to pack the box with so this item would not break (I cannot say what it is because it is a gift). It was so nice of him, especially since he didn't have to do it.
I observed a lot of the students on the ship with similar sentiments. Many soon realized that the stereotypes they had were off base. I realized that as long as you try to speak German, you would get positive responses. The small moments I had talking to people meant a lot to me, and I will carry them with me. On the front of my journal it says "It is the little moments that make life big." How true this was for me in Hamburg. :)
2) Serendipity and the Chocolate Factory
One of my favorite experiences happened on Saturday as I was running errands. Something that was stressed in my anthropology class was to try to be a traveler rather than a tourist. If you are a traveler, you are more likely to have a more enriching experience than you would as a tourist. As a traveler, you are more likely to be free from a set itinerary and therefore have the opportunity to have special and unique encounters with locals. My professor then listed off ways in which we could become travelers. One piece of advice that stood out to me was "look for serendipity." Prior to this experience I did not really understand what that meant, and little did I know what waited around the corner for me that Saturday afternoon. A few months ago I was looking up cool things to do in Hamburg. One of the top items on the list was to visit the Hachez chocolate factory. I made plans to ask Adelina, my German Exchange partner from high school, about it but I kept forgetting.
Anyway, on Saturday I was in the city and had completed all of my errands. I began to head off towards Hafencity where I planned to grab a bite to eat. I tried to follow the path I had traveled the previous day with Addi but got a little turned around because the buildings all looked very similar. I was walking down the street and saw a gold sign in the distance. I thought I would go and investigate. The sign said Chocoversum on it and I wondered what it was. I walked up to the window and saw different chocolate products on display. It was then I began to make a connection. That realization solidified when I walked in and realized that this was the chocolate factory that I wanted to see. It was a complete accident that I ended up there but like I said, it was one of my best experiences. I noticed that the next tour was scheduled in fifteen minutes and I decided it would be worth it to buy a tour ticket. I am so glad I did. Even though the whole tour was in German, I was able to glean a lot from it. I learned all about the chocolate making process from start to finish. I even got to sample along the way as Anna showed us the different machines and stages of chocolate processing.
The best part of this tour was when we got the chance to build our own chocolate bar! We got to choose three ingredients to sprinkle on top of a mold filled with melted chocolate. After we did that the chocolate was refrigerated and cooled while we finished the tour. Some of the toppings they had were gummy bears, white and dark chocolate chips, cocoa nibs, chili flakes, salt, pepper, cornflakes, chocolate candies, hazelnut pieces and coconut. After she gave directions I ended up observing other people in our group before making mine just in case I had missed something. My final chocolate bar had dark chocolate chips, hazelnut pieces and little candies that resembled M&M's. It wasn't my most beautiful creation, but it was still a blast.
The tour lasted a little over an hour and was worth every penny. I viewed this experience as a moment of serendipity because it was unplanned and it turned out to be meaningful and special. It was not meaningful purely based on the fact that I got to sample chocolate but rather it was meaningful because I got to challenge myself. It was not easy to pay attention for that long, trying to figure out what was being said in a foreign language. I was happy to find at the end that I had learned a lot. It was special because I felt it immersed me in the German culture more than if I had gone to a famous landmark. It gave me a vessel to interact with others. And of course, it was fun! After this experience I realized the importance of wandering and getting out of your comfort zone. I practiced in Germany, since I was more comfortable, and now I am ready to try it out in a country I am unfamiliar with. I know it will be just as rewarding, if not more. The best things are often unplanned.
3) Spending Time With Old and New Friends
As I mentioned previously, I have been to Germany before. The last time I traveled to Germany was in high school through a German Exchange Program at my school. I spent a month in a small village about 30 minutes outside of Hamburg called Elmshorn. I was paired up with Addi. When I first found out that I was visiting Hamburg on Semester at Sea I immediately emailed her to see if we could meet up. She actually works in Hamburg, which was perfect. We made plans to see each other on Friday. It was great to see her again after four years. It didn't seem like it was that long ago! We spent the afternoon going around the city and seeing some really cool things. Addi showed me where she worked and lived. I felt that spending time with her allowed me to have an insiders look at the city, and it was much more personal. We went to the top of St. Michael's Church where the panoramic view of Hamburg was spectacular. She took me to a special candy shop that I may not have visited otherwise. We also took a photo on the same bridge we had taken a photo five years prior. It was a beautiful, sunny day which made it ideal for walking around outside. Later in the afternoon we visited her favorite ice cream shop and I enjoyed a really amazing scoop of apple vanilla ice cream. I even for the chance to see where she lives! By the way, Addi has an adorable apartment! :) And the area she lives in is amazing! There were so many green trees and cute little shops.
After getting to her apartment I got to meet her boyfriend, Matthias, for the first time. He is such a great guy and is super nice. I am so glad they found each other!
We went to dinner at this adorable Italian restaurant. I had spaghetti Bolognese and it was really delicious. The white bread reminded me of my Dad's bread at home, and for a moment or two I got a little homesick. Following dinner we walked to the Alster Lake and watched the sunset. It was cool to see all of the sailboats and paddle boats. There were a lot more than I expected. The Alster Lake is actually man-made. Throughout the entire day I got to connect with an old friend and meet a new friend. It was one of the highlights of my trip as well. So good to spend time with them and learn about the city they live in. Later in the evening they took me to a trendy cocktail bar that had an amazing strawberry margarita with real fruit puree! Addi and Matthias ordered cocktails that came with a mountain of fruit on top. It had pineapple, grapes, pieces of melon and a leaf. I am sad I did not get a picture of it.
As you know, I spent Saturday on my own. On Sunday I got to see these two again for a few hours before the ship left. They took me through this really cool underground river tunnel that was lined with white tile and small stone sea life carvings on the walls. In the old days, cars used to travel through the tunnel to quickly reach the other side of the city. They used special elevators for the cars, and I got to ride in one. It was also cool to see the MV Explorer from the other side of the river. We then headed to Schanze to visit a café. It was an adventure for all of us because none of us had been to this café. It turned out to be a hidden gem. From the outside it did not look like much but once you got inside it was a whole different story. It was super cozy, with mint green walls and mismatched wooden furniture. There were fresh lilies and other flowers and two display cases. They had the most artistic cupcakes I have ever seen! We ordered a sampler tray so we could taste all the different flavors. I also enjoyed a wonderful cup of coffee. The cupcakes were heavenly. There is no other way to describe it! Our last stop before returning was a Turkish restaurant where I got to enjoy my second Doener of the trip! It tasted just like I remembered and was of course, delicious!
I had such a great time with Addi and Matthias. They were both so generous and it enhanced my overall experience greatly. Without them, I would not have seen or learned as much. It goes to show that interacting with someone from the country gives you a gift you would not receive from a simple city tour. I am so thankful and appreciative.
4) Schanze
Now, I know I already talked about the cupcake shop and Turkish restaurant I visited. But, there is obviously more to this area of the city than food. I really enjoyed exploring Schanze because it was so different than any other part of Hamburg. Addi and Matthias explained that it is a place where exhibitions often occurred and a place where young people lived. When I first got to Schanze I was a little surprised because there was a lot of graffiti. It was on most buildings and it was usually writing. Sometimes there would be a graffiti poster. Also, on some of the buildings, posters were plastered all over the walls. It was a different kind of beauty. I enjoyed it because it seemed like this part of the city was a cultural hub. Also, protests often happen in this area, and you could almost feel the energy in the air. I thought it was cool! There were a ton of restaurants and you could find any type of cuisine you desired, whether it is Asian, Italian, Turkish or Indian. There were also several shops. One of the coolest buildings I encountered was one near the train station. It was all gray but it was also in the shape of a train. I thought that was very unique. Even though I did not spend more than an hour and a half here, I loved it!
5) Cultural Comments
One cool thing I noticed in Hamburg was the similar tradition of placing a lock on the bridge to symbolize unbreakable love. It immediately made me thing of Moscow and the Wedding Bridge. I thought it was really cool to observe a cross-cultural practice. The predominant color of the locks I saw in both Hamburg and Moscow was red, which is a universal color symbol of love and romance.
Another thing I took away from Hamburg was to never ever take for granted free public restrooms! In Germany you often had to pay 0,50 Euros to use the restroom. I think there is a trade off though. In the US you can use the restroom for free, but they are often pretty dirty. In Germany, you have to pay, but the restrooms are much cleaner.
Another fun experience I had was visiting the McDonalds in Hamburg near the Reeperbahn. They had a bacon and egg McMuffin and it was amazing. I don't know why we don't have it in the US. Now, I am not visiting McDonalds because I want to eat it but I have an assignment that requires me to visit 3 different McDonalds on 3 continents to comment on the differences and similarities between those locations and ones in the US. At this location their McFlurry flavors were chocolate brownie, strawberry, caramel cookie, and smartie. There was no similarity with the US from this point. The McDonalds was also really upscale. It was just really fun to visit something so familiar and to see so many differences. It was another highlight of my trip.
One piece of advice I learned on the first night when something we had planned to witness did not work out is to not disregard the planning fallacy. It always takes longer than you think it will, and when you are traveling, you should plan for it. This holds true for returning to the ship early to avoid dock time. We wanted to go see a light show but found out pretty soon that it was really far away. By the time we got there the show ended and we had been misinformed because we thought the show began at 9:30 instead of 9PM. We all had to laugh a little at our small misfortune. On the flip side, we got a lot of exercise.
Another quick observation I had is that Germans really do follow the rules. A lot of things are based on the honors system. For example, you could very easily hop on a train without actually buying a ticket. However, if you do get caught, it is 40 Euros. In Russia, Olga said that the stereotype of Americans is that we do not ever steal anything and always pay for merchandise. In Germany, I heard many students pressed their luck and didn't buy tickets and of course, got caught. I just thought it was kind of interesting. Many people perceive Americans as rule followers. Compared to Germans though, we sort of pale. Another example was every time I was at a stoplight, you never saw a German cross the street, even if the coast was clear, when there was a red sign. They always waited until the light turned green. Those are some of the fun cultural differences I can remember as of right now.
I had such a blast in Germany!! I almost wish we could have stayed there just a bit longer. I am very excited for the upcoming ports though. I know the ports in Africa will be challenging in a different sense, and that excites me! When I first visited Germany as a junior in high school, I experienced a high amount of culture shock and even, admittedly some feelings of ethnocentrism. This time, however, was a completely different story. It is crazy how much you grow and change in five years. Both times in Germany I had very enriching experiences. I got to live in a village and spend time in the city. If I had to choose anywhere in the world to live, besides somewhere in the US, I would definitely choose Germany. I am lucky to have such a great friend in Addi. This time I really tried to focus on experiencing every moment and being bold. It worked out quite well, I think.
There is one last thing I wanted to mention about ship life. After we spend time in port, we have post-port debriefings. During these meetings students get a chance to share stories that impacted them. One of the most striking things I heard at this debriefing was from a student leading the meeting. He said that we had been given a great gift in Semester at Sea. Instead of viewing it as a gift for us, he encouraged us to see it as a chance to build a gift for someone else. I thought it was really inspiring. I hope that somehow my time on Semester at Sea will impact those around me through the stories I tell. I want to give back more than what I have been given. Already, I see so many changes in myself. Who knows what will happen after the voyage or where life will take me? I know that by the end I will be a new woman with so many stories to share, and a beautiful gift to give.
Sending love and hugs,
Jessica
P.S. Photos will be posted in the next entry!
Sunday, September 1, 2013
Privet from St. Petersburg and Moscow
Hello Readers!
I finally had some time to sit down and write some blog entries. I arrived back to the ship from Moscow just this morning and I am excited to share my experiences. I hope everything is going okay with all of you! I have learned and seen so much and it is impossible to cover it all in one blog entry. I will do my best to choose the highlights, but know it is a little difficult for me to choose. We just left port and luckily everyone made it back to the ship on time and avoided the dreaded dock time. If you are late to the ship you get dock time, which means that in the next port you have to stay on the ship for the allotted amount of time. It is not a minute by minute thing though. I believe that if you are late 5 minutes that you probably get about an hour of dock time because it costs the ship so much money to stay in port longer than the allotted departure time. I do know of one student who unfortunately lost her passport when her purse got stolen. Otherwise, I believe that our first port was a success!
1) St. Petersburg- A window to Europe
I spent the first day in port in St. Petersburg. The morning we arrived was pretty hectic but I got up early so I could see the ship pull up to the dock. I enjoyed breakfast with my roomie and then went to a diplomatic meeting with a man who works in the consulate in St. Petersburg. Then I grabbed my passport and immigration card and headed downstairs to the gangway. I was scheduled to go on a walking tour of St. Petersburg so I got off the ship earlier than most of the other students. We passed through security on the ship, walked down the gangway and then went through customs before stepping into Russia. I took a moment to soak in the fact that I was in Russia. It was so exciting. The walking tour was a lot of fun. We got to visit the famous Hermitage museum which had tons and tons of artwork from all over the world. Our guide, Elena, said that if you spent an average of one minute at each exhibit in Hermitage, it would take you 8 years to see every single art exhibit! We only had two hours in the museum, so our guide took us to some of the exhibits she thought we would enjoy the most. My favorite rooms in Hermitage were the Chandelier Room and the Gold Room. Their names explain the rooms. Every ceiling and floor in the museum was intricate, ornate and beautiful. I was honestly shocked at how breathtaking the museum was. I also really enjoyed walking through Catherine the Great's favorite corridor. It was covered from floor to ceiling in paintings that depicted flowers, birds and biblical scenes. I had the chance to walk down the grand staircase too. It was made from Italian marble and there were beautiful marble statues scattered throughout. I could go on and on but it would suffice to say that Hermitage is worth a stop if you ever get to St. Petersburg. The only sad part about the museum is that it does not showcase Russian art. In order to see that you have to go to the Russian museum. Peter the Great wanted St. Petersburg to be a window to Europe, and it definitely is. When walking along the streets, you see brightly colored buildings and canals. It definitely reminds you of other places in Europe. I loved St. Petersburg because it was so beautiful and I am so glad we stopped there.
2) Cathedrals- The Cathedral of Spilled Blood, The Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, and St. Basil's Cathedral
While in Russia I had the privilege of seeing countless cathedrals. The ones listed above were the highlights of the ones I saw while in St. Petersburg and while in Moscow. The first cathedral was in St. Petersburg and was one of the locations we walked to on the walking tour right before lunch. Elena said it was the most beautiful cathedral in the entire city and I definitely agree. The outside has a lot of mosaics made from tiny pieces. From far away it looks like the church has paintings on the outside. The characteristic onion shaped domes were also one of my favorite parts of this cathedral. They were blue and green and gold. I really loved this Cathedral and photos do not do it justice. I didn't get a chance to go inside but Elena said that almost the entire church is covered in mosaics. The second cathedral, or Christ the Saviour is also worth mentioning. I visited this cathedral in Moscow and had the chance to enter the church. I covered my hair with a scarf and was informed that we were not allowed to take any photos. Once inside I wish I could have broken the rules. It literally is the most beautiful cathedral I have ever seen. The ceilings and walls were covered in bright paintings depicting saints. My favorite part was looking up at the central dome to see a depiction of God looking down. The light fixtures were made of pure gold and were so unique. The coolest part of this cathedral was getting the chance to see Russian people performing their ritual. It was really special. The outside of this cathedral is marble and the domes are also made from pure gold. During the war this cathedral was destroyed, so they turned it into a giant swimming pool. Eventually they decided to restore the cathedral, and I am so glad that they did. The final cathedral listed is the one I had been waiting for and the one I was most looking forward to seeing, St. Basil's Cathedral in Red Square. I had seen this church on countless travel shows when they discussed Russia. In Moscow it was one of the first places we visited. While on the bus I kept my eyes peeled. We came around a corner and there it was, on top of a small hill. It was so majestic and beautiful. Don't ask me to say which cathedral I liked the best because I liked all of the ones I saw for different reasons. St. Basil's was amazing and I am so glad I got to see it. The colors were really bright and the red color of the bricks was really unique. Every time we passed the church I made sure to stare at it as long as possible so as to ingrain it in my memory. Each cathedral I encountered was unique and special, but these three were my favorite. According to Olga, our guide in Moscow, the cathedrals do not have pews so the Russian people have to stand for up to four hours during a service. All Russians are also very very religious. You cannot go to Russia and not appreciate the amazing architecture and beauty of these houses of worship.
3) The Kremlin
Another highlight of Moscow was visiting the Kremlin, or fortress. When we entered the Kremlin I was greeted by more amazing architecture and more cathedrals. Our first stop on our tour was to the armory. By chance we were able to visit the Diamond Fund before entering the armory portion of the museum. I was not allowed to take any photographs. I will do my best to describe what I saw. Upon entering the Diamond room I was greeted by darkness and silence. We were not allowed to talk or whisper. There were cases covered by thick glass and filled with Russian treasures. There was gold and other precious metals as well as countless jewels and gems. My favorite tiara was one that had a ton of diamonds and pearls hanging down from it. There was also a rose hair piece covered in diamonds. The jewelry was truly breathtaking. In the second room was all of the royal pieces. There was a stunning crown that had over 2,000 diamonds and that weighed about 2 kilos. There was also a staff that had emeralds and other stones on it. It was so amazing and I had no idea of the treasures inside. After viewing the diamond area we went into the armory. This portion of the museum had the crown jewels, clothing, carriages and other relics. Some of them dated back to the 14th century! There were also amazing Faberge eggs and goblets of all kinds. I really enjoyed this museum! Olga had a ton of great stories to tell. Before becoming a tour guide she was a teacher... and boy did she teach us! After the museum we walked to different areas of the Kremlin and spent some time in Cathedral square. These cathedrals all had golden domes. We got to go inside one of them and it was really cool because the paintings inside told a story. The Kremlin also had a secret garden where officials would go to speak about private matters because it was impossible to intercept anything there. The views from the Kremlin were also really cool.
4) Russian Folklore
Unfortunately we were unable to attend a Russian Ballet performance because of timing and because of some miscommunication. However, I say now that is is a very happy accident that we missed the ballet. Instead of seeing that we got to see a fantastic Russian Folklore show. The first half took you through the history of Russia and the second half featured traditional Russian dance and folk songs. The costumes were all handmade and it took a whole year to make them all. They were spectacular! The dancing was also super amazing. The men definitely pulled me in the most. They were doing some difficult kicks from a squatting position and leaping in the air doing kicks. They also jumped, turned and landed on their knees. They spun on their knees and flew across the floor. It was so cool. Even though it was in Russian it was fairly easy to follow. All of us ended up having a great time seeing the show. An added bonus was receiving a refund for the miscommunication. So, it was all a really happy accident and I am actually really glad we went to see that show instead of the ballet because it was a true Russian show. It was a really unique cultural experience and I would go again if I could just to watch the dancing.
5) Cultural Differences and Food
My time in Russia truly flew by. While visiting I did pick up on some interesting differences between their culture and US culture. One of the main things that was different was the toilet situation. I know this is a random topic but we were asked to focus on differences in eating, sleeping, drinking and eliminating for my anthropology class. In Russia they ask you to put your used toilet paper in a waste bin rather than flushing it. I mentioned this to my older sister and she said it is common in developing countries. It was surprising to find it in Russia. Because the water pressure isn't as strong, the pipes get clogged easily from the toilet paper. That was a fun experience. Another thing I noticed was that in Russia you can park wherever you please. I don't know if that is entirely true but it would seem that way as people would just pull up on the sidewalk and park. I saw cars parked beside the curb and on the sidewalk. I also witnessed some crazy driving and it was quite terrifying. Our bus almost collided with another bus. It was inches away from hitting it. I also realized that the Russian people are in general really nice people, especially if you make an effort to speak to them in Russian. A lot of people were as interested in us as we were interested in them. Another big difference between the Russians and the US is that the Russian people are religious individuals. There are religious Americans but I have not been to a city with such a high concentration of churches and strong beliefs as in Russia. There is also a lot of discipline in Russia and they have suffered in the past. Olga often said in passing that we don't really understand what it means to have nothing or what it feels like to have restricted access to goods. This adventure in Russia really opened my eyes to my own stereotypes and feelings of ethnocentrism, even though they never surfaced. I was aware of them but when I stepped off the ship I checked them at the gangway and allowed myself to be taken in. I tried my best to see the world through their eyes and I believe this allowed me to make a good impression. Of course I do not understand all that it means to be Russian but my goal is to try and understand and learn as much as I can throughout the voyage in every port.
Another fun thing I experienced in Russia was the cuisine. While in Moscow I was able to dine at different types of restaurants. My favorite was a little restaurant that served very authentic Russian food. We started with a tomato and cheese salad and rolls. Then I got to enjoy a hot bowl of borscht and it was amazing! I loved it! Then we had a chicken cutlet with potatoes. For dessert we had the option of coffee or tea and enjoyed a lemon jello type dessert with a raspberry sauce. It was a great meal and I was stuffed by the end of it. I also dined at a restaurant that fused Russian cuisine and Asian cuisine. Unfortunately I do not know what type of Asian food was influencing the cuisine but I do know that it does have a strong influence on Russian culture. Did you know that the national drink of Russia is NOT vodka but tea? I was surprised to hear that. A lot of the restaurants we visited were buffet style. I wish I had had more time to visit a market and see what else is characteristic of the Russian diet. I do know that fresh vegetables and dill are commonly used in salads. I also had some steamed vegetables seasoned with parsley. I did not set out with the goal to have Russian vodka but I ended up tasting it by chance. After our second tour day Olga took us to a Russian gift shop that was not for tourists. When we walked inside we were greeted by the owners and offered shots of vodka as a sign of hospitality. I couldn't really say no so I tried it. Lets just say it was very strong. haha.
So that is just a glimpse into my experience and adventure in Russia. I hope that you enjoyed reading this and know I am sending my love and best wishes! I will be arriving in my next port, Hamburg, on Thursday! BTW I took over 1000 photos in Russia but I will try and just choose a few. They will be posted as a separate entry. More will be on Facebook at the end of my voyage! Enjoy! Paka (Bye in Russian)!
-Jessica
I finally had some time to sit down and write some blog entries. I arrived back to the ship from Moscow just this morning and I am excited to share my experiences. I hope everything is going okay with all of you! I have learned and seen so much and it is impossible to cover it all in one blog entry. I will do my best to choose the highlights, but know it is a little difficult for me to choose. We just left port and luckily everyone made it back to the ship on time and avoided the dreaded dock time. If you are late to the ship you get dock time, which means that in the next port you have to stay on the ship for the allotted amount of time. It is not a minute by minute thing though. I believe that if you are late 5 minutes that you probably get about an hour of dock time because it costs the ship so much money to stay in port longer than the allotted departure time. I do know of one student who unfortunately lost her passport when her purse got stolen. Otherwise, I believe that our first port was a success!
1) St. Petersburg- A window to Europe
I spent the first day in port in St. Petersburg. The morning we arrived was pretty hectic but I got up early so I could see the ship pull up to the dock. I enjoyed breakfast with my roomie and then went to a diplomatic meeting with a man who works in the consulate in St. Petersburg. Then I grabbed my passport and immigration card and headed downstairs to the gangway. I was scheduled to go on a walking tour of St. Petersburg so I got off the ship earlier than most of the other students. We passed through security on the ship, walked down the gangway and then went through customs before stepping into Russia. I took a moment to soak in the fact that I was in Russia. It was so exciting. The walking tour was a lot of fun. We got to visit the famous Hermitage museum which had tons and tons of artwork from all over the world. Our guide, Elena, said that if you spent an average of one minute at each exhibit in Hermitage, it would take you 8 years to see every single art exhibit! We only had two hours in the museum, so our guide took us to some of the exhibits she thought we would enjoy the most. My favorite rooms in Hermitage were the Chandelier Room and the Gold Room. Their names explain the rooms. Every ceiling and floor in the museum was intricate, ornate and beautiful. I was honestly shocked at how breathtaking the museum was. I also really enjoyed walking through Catherine the Great's favorite corridor. It was covered from floor to ceiling in paintings that depicted flowers, birds and biblical scenes. I had the chance to walk down the grand staircase too. It was made from Italian marble and there were beautiful marble statues scattered throughout. I could go on and on but it would suffice to say that Hermitage is worth a stop if you ever get to St. Petersburg. The only sad part about the museum is that it does not showcase Russian art. In order to see that you have to go to the Russian museum. Peter the Great wanted St. Petersburg to be a window to Europe, and it definitely is. When walking along the streets, you see brightly colored buildings and canals. It definitely reminds you of other places in Europe. I loved St. Petersburg because it was so beautiful and I am so glad we stopped there.
2) Cathedrals- The Cathedral of Spilled Blood, The Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, and St. Basil's Cathedral
While in Russia I had the privilege of seeing countless cathedrals. The ones listed above were the highlights of the ones I saw while in St. Petersburg and while in Moscow. The first cathedral was in St. Petersburg and was one of the locations we walked to on the walking tour right before lunch. Elena said it was the most beautiful cathedral in the entire city and I definitely agree. The outside has a lot of mosaics made from tiny pieces. From far away it looks like the church has paintings on the outside. The characteristic onion shaped domes were also one of my favorite parts of this cathedral. They were blue and green and gold. I really loved this Cathedral and photos do not do it justice. I didn't get a chance to go inside but Elena said that almost the entire church is covered in mosaics. The second cathedral, or Christ the Saviour is also worth mentioning. I visited this cathedral in Moscow and had the chance to enter the church. I covered my hair with a scarf and was informed that we were not allowed to take any photos. Once inside I wish I could have broken the rules. It literally is the most beautiful cathedral I have ever seen. The ceilings and walls were covered in bright paintings depicting saints. My favorite part was looking up at the central dome to see a depiction of God looking down. The light fixtures were made of pure gold and were so unique. The coolest part of this cathedral was getting the chance to see Russian people performing their ritual. It was really special. The outside of this cathedral is marble and the domes are also made from pure gold. During the war this cathedral was destroyed, so they turned it into a giant swimming pool. Eventually they decided to restore the cathedral, and I am so glad that they did. The final cathedral listed is the one I had been waiting for and the one I was most looking forward to seeing, St. Basil's Cathedral in Red Square. I had seen this church on countless travel shows when they discussed Russia. In Moscow it was one of the first places we visited. While on the bus I kept my eyes peeled. We came around a corner and there it was, on top of a small hill. It was so majestic and beautiful. Don't ask me to say which cathedral I liked the best because I liked all of the ones I saw for different reasons. St. Basil's was amazing and I am so glad I got to see it. The colors were really bright and the red color of the bricks was really unique. Every time we passed the church I made sure to stare at it as long as possible so as to ingrain it in my memory. Each cathedral I encountered was unique and special, but these three were my favorite. According to Olga, our guide in Moscow, the cathedrals do not have pews so the Russian people have to stand for up to four hours during a service. All Russians are also very very religious. You cannot go to Russia and not appreciate the amazing architecture and beauty of these houses of worship.
3) The Kremlin
Another highlight of Moscow was visiting the Kremlin, or fortress. When we entered the Kremlin I was greeted by more amazing architecture and more cathedrals. Our first stop on our tour was to the armory. By chance we were able to visit the Diamond Fund before entering the armory portion of the museum. I was not allowed to take any photographs. I will do my best to describe what I saw. Upon entering the Diamond room I was greeted by darkness and silence. We were not allowed to talk or whisper. There were cases covered by thick glass and filled with Russian treasures. There was gold and other precious metals as well as countless jewels and gems. My favorite tiara was one that had a ton of diamonds and pearls hanging down from it. There was also a rose hair piece covered in diamonds. The jewelry was truly breathtaking. In the second room was all of the royal pieces. There was a stunning crown that had over 2,000 diamonds and that weighed about 2 kilos. There was also a staff that had emeralds and other stones on it. It was so amazing and I had no idea of the treasures inside. After viewing the diamond area we went into the armory. This portion of the museum had the crown jewels, clothing, carriages and other relics. Some of them dated back to the 14th century! There were also amazing Faberge eggs and goblets of all kinds. I really enjoyed this museum! Olga had a ton of great stories to tell. Before becoming a tour guide she was a teacher... and boy did she teach us! After the museum we walked to different areas of the Kremlin and spent some time in Cathedral square. These cathedrals all had golden domes. We got to go inside one of them and it was really cool because the paintings inside told a story. The Kremlin also had a secret garden where officials would go to speak about private matters because it was impossible to intercept anything there. The views from the Kremlin were also really cool.
4) Russian Folklore
Unfortunately we were unable to attend a Russian Ballet performance because of timing and because of some miscommunication. However, I say now that is is a very happy accident that we missed the ballet. Instead of seeing that we got to see a fantastic Russian Folklore show. The first half took you through the history of Russia and the second half featured traditional Russian dance and folk songs. The costumes were all handmade and it took a whole year to make them all. They were spectacular! The dancing was also super amazing. The men definitely pulled me in the most. They were doing some difficult kicks from a squatting position and leaping in the air doing kicks. They also jumped, turned and landed on their knees. They spun on their knees and flew across the floor. It was so cool. Even though it was in Russian it was fairly easy to follow. All of us ended up having a great time seeing the show. An added bonus was receiving a refund for the miscommunication. So, it was all a really happy accident and I am actually really glad we went to see that show instead of the ballet because it was a true Russian show. It was a really unique cultural experience and I would go again if I could just to watch the dancing.
5) Cultural Differences and Food
My time in Russia truly flew by. While visiting I did pick up on some interesting differences between their culture and US culture. One of the main things that was different was the toilet situation. I know this is a random topic but we were asked to focus on differences in eating, sleeping, drinking and eliminating for my anthropology class. In Russia they ask you to put your used toilet paper in a waste bin rather than flushing it. I mentioned this to my older sister and she said it is common in developing countries. It was surprising to find it in Russia. Because the water pressure isn't as strong, the pipes get clogged easily from the toilet paper. That was a fun experience. Another thing I noticed was that in Russia you can park wherever you please. I don't know if that is entirely true but it would seem that way as people would just pull up on the sidewalk and park. I saw cars parked beside the curb and on the sidewalk. I also witnessed some crazy driving and it was quite terrifying. Our bus almost collided with another bus. It was inches away from hitting it. I also realized that the Russian people are in general really nice people, especially if you make an effort to speak to them in Russian. A lot of people were as interested in us as we were interested in them. Another big difference between the Russians and the US is that the Russian people are religious individuals. There are religious Americans but I have not been to a city with such a high concentration of churches and strong beliefs as in Russia. There is also a lot of discipline in Russia and they have suffered in the past. Olga often said in passing that we don't really understand what it means to have nothing or what it feels like to have restricted access to goods. This adventure in Russia really opened my eyes to my own stereotypes and feelings of ethnocentrism, even though they never surfaced. I was aware of them but when I stepped off the ship I checked them at the gangway and allowed myself to be taken in. I tried my best to see the world through their eyes and I believe this allowed me to make a good impression. Of course I do not understand all that it means to be Russian but my goal is to try and understand and learn as much as I can throughout the voyage in every port.
Another fun thing I experienced in Russia was the cuisine. While in Moscow I was able to dine at different types of restaurants. My favorite was a little restaurant that served very authentic Russian food. We started with a tomato and cheese salad and rolls. Then I got to enjoy a hot bowl of borscht and it was amazing! I loved it! Then we had a chicken cutlet with potatoes. For dessert we had the option of coffee or tea and enjoyed a lemon jello type dessert with a raspberry sauce. It was a great meal and I was stuffed by the end of it. I also dined at a restaurant that fused Russian cuisine and Asian cuisine. Unfortunately I do not know what type of Asian food was influencing the cuisine but I do know that it does have a strong influence on Russian culture. Did you know that the national drink of Russia is NOT vodka but tea? I was surprised to hear that. A lot of the restaurants we visited were buffet style. I wish I had had more time to visit a market and see what else is characteristic of the Russian diet. I do know that fresh vegetables and dill are commonly used in salads. I also had some steamed vegetables seasoned with parsley. I did not set out with the goal to have Russian vodka but I ended up tasting it by chance. After our second tour day Olga took us to a Russian gift shop that was not for tourists. When we walked inside we were greeted by the owners and offered shots of vodka as a sign of hospitality. I couldn't really say no so I tried it. Lets just say it was very strong. haha.
So that is just a glimpse into my experience and adventure in Russia. I hope that you enjoyed reading this and know I am sending my love and best wishes! I will be arriving in my next port, Hamburg, on Thursday! BTW I took over 1000 photos in Russia but I will try and just choose a few. They will be posted as a separate entry. More will be on Facebook at the end of my voyage! Enjoy! Paka (Bye in Russian)!
-Jessica
Living on a Floating Campus
I am sorry that I have not been able to write any blog posts recently. Life on board the ship is a lot busier than I originally imagined. I will try and work on posting more frequent entries in the future. This post is about my first few days on the MV Explorer and about adjusting to my new life. I hope that you enjoy it! Feel free to E-mail me if you would like to know more about my experience because my blogs are usually written at bare minimum. I hope all of you are doing well!
1) Embarkation Day!
The day I stepped onboard the MV Explorer is a day I will always remember. It was the start of a new chapter and journey of my life. I took a shuttle to the Port of Southampton from Heathrow Airport at around 8:30AM. It was pretty gray outside and it was sprinkling. I stood in line, went through security and headed to the Gangway. Seeing the ship for the first time was a special moment as well. I looked up at this ship and thought, "Here is my new home!" I was so excited to get inside and see everything. Then I walked up the gangway and left my old life behind. I opened my mind to all of the possibilities and hopes for the journey. I felt like I was already becoming a different individual and throughout the first week I felt so many changes occur. I took one last look at the port and stepped over the threshold. When i first walked in, there were tons of staff and faculty greeting us and guiding us towards check in. It was a quick process and before I knew it I was headed to my cabin. When I got to my cabin I was relieved to see my shipped luggage outside the door. I was not prepared for the surprise behind the door. Before traveling on the ship I heard previous students comment on the small size of the cabins. However, when I got inside my cabin I was excited to see how much storage and space there was. By the time I finished unpacking everything had its own place. There are plenty of drawers and we have a fridge and TV. The bathroom is also a good size- I thought it would be tiny. My room is in the middle of the ship so we do not hear the engines or anything. We also have a large square window that overlooks the ocean. I think the cabin is beautiful! After a while I heard the door open and then I got to meet my roommate for the first time. We instantly connected and are really close now. It made the whole process so much easier. After unpacking our stuff we went to lunch in the dining hall. Food on the ship is buffet style but there is so much variety. There is always a meat, a fish, pasta, salad and potatoes. They also always have PB and J. I love the PB and J station because they have hotel pans full of PB and one full of Jelly. I was super shocked about the staff as well. I did not know what to expect but I was unprepared for the service they offer. They help you carry your plates, bring you drinks, clear your plates and always have smiles on their faces. Later in the day I also met my cabin steward, Crispen, and he is super awesome and friendly. The ship itself is beautiful and unique. There are photos all around the ship from past voyages. There is a campus store, a library, a student union, classrooms, medical center, workout center, pool deck, snack bars and even a spa! One of my favorite places on the ship is Deck 6 aft, where there is an outdoor dining space. I have definitely taken advantage of the nice weather to eat outside and soak up some rays. After spending the afternoon unpacking we had the chance to see the ship pull away from the dock. Because it is the 50th anniversary voyage, they had us grab some bubbles to blow as we began to sail away. It was really a special moment. Some of the parents had traveled to London and were there to see us off. They waved for a long time as the ship slowly began to leave. I turned around after a while and said to myself, "well, here we go..." I will never forget that moment with all the students onboard, blowing bubbles, saying goodbye, and turning their eyes to the ocean, ready to have the experience of a lifetime. The evening was spent at our Sea Meetings. We are the Bering Sea and I think we have a good chance of winning the Sea Olympics which happen later in the voyage. Our color is kelly green. We basically went over the logistics and rules of the ship. It was not the most exciting but it was needed and allowed us to get some good insight. I went to bed at around 11pm since Orientation was the very next day at 9AM. I know I say that this day was special a lot, but it really was. I was ready when we left the dock, ready for an adventure and open to change.
2) Orientation Day
On Sunday we spent the entire day at Orientation. It began at around 9AM and lasted until around 4PM. There were a lot of speeches and a lot of rules laid out on the table. I learned a lot about what it means to be on Semester at Sea. Many of the staff said "Welcome to the time of your life!" Everyone is super friendly and ready to help if needed. In the afternoon we got to hear Captain Jeremy speak about safety in regards to the actual ship. On embarkation day we had a life boat drill. We have to do one every 30 days just to make sure we all know what to do in an emergency. One thing I gleaned from orientation is that what they captain says, goes. He is the law on the ship. The faculty have some power but the ultimate decision goes to the Captain. On the ship we are subject to maritime law, so it is important that we know the rules of both SAS and the ship. My favorite segment was the last one... field programs. It made me even more excited to get to our first port. Since we finished at 4pm I had the chance to take a nap and unwind from the day. Later in the evening was the activity fair. I signed up to be a part of several clubs but the whole experience was hectic. Just imaging 500+ students in a small area trying to hear about all the different clubs and trying to find their way to a sign up sheet. Orientation Day was a bit tiring but it made me even more excited for the voyage. The ocean was calm for the most part but many people, including me, are still trying to get our sea legs. The main talk of the day was about the first day of classes. I was super excited but also nervous to start class. It was a good day and I looked forward to my first day of school on a floating campus!
3) First Day of School (Part One)
My first class on A days begins at 10:50. However, breakfast is from 7AM to 8:30 AM every day. On the first day of school I woke up at 7:30 and headed to breakfast. I met up with some other people and discussed our expectations and class schedules. After a quick bite I headed to the campus store. The line was super long but since I had time I figured I would wait. It took about 40 minutes before I got in but it was worth it. I loaded up on SAS gear and got a much needed pair of flip flops... I left mine at the hotel in London. Unfortunately they did not have any sunglasses... Both pairs broke in the same manner upon arrival in London... they were in separate bags. Hopefully I will be able to purchase some in our first port. Anyway, I went a little crazy but I will definitely use everything I bought. After the bookstore I prepared for my first class, which was Anthropology of Food. That class will probably be my favorite out of all four. The first class was great and I really like my professor. She really encouraged us to talk to her and get to know her. She also has a lot of stories about previous voyages. This will be her 5th voyage on Semester at Sea. After this class I went to lunch and then spent the afternoon reading for that class. At 3:40pm I went to my Cross Cultural Psychology class in the Student Union. This class had a lot more students as it is a global lens course. I am looking forward to this course as well. The professor seems pretty interesting. The rest of my first day was spent reading my assignments and attending a seminar about traveling and how to make the most of it. They discussed how to be a traveler rather than a tourist. It was great to hear the faculty give their input. Another fun thing about the ship are the announcements. There is a two tone sound and then the announcements are given at noon and at 6pm. Today I thought a lot about my journey ahead. I felt a tiny bit homesick but at the same time I separated myself a little. It felt like I was living two lives. You definitely feel that way once you step on the ship. You realize that you are in for the long haul and you acknowledge that you will be a different person when you return from the voyage. My first day was a lot of fun and I spent the evening preparing for my next first day of school.
4) First Day of School (Part Two)
That wasn't a typo when I said that I had two first days. On the ship we have A days and B days and our classes are in block schedules. Today, on the first B day, I had class at 9:25AM in Introduction to Anthropology. I had the same professor as I did yesterday and I feel that both of her classes will be very enriching. What better way to learn about culture than through Anthropology? Right after that class I had Stress: Work, Technology, and Life. It was an alright class but not one of my favorites. I hope that it gets better because my first field lab is in that class. We will be going to WHO in Belgium. In Intro to Anthropology we will be going to an education center in South Africa. I am super excited for that as well! My second first day went pretty well overall. I was finished with class at noon so I had the whole afternoon to nap and read for classes. It was definitely a great day because of that. Even though I love my A days I think I like my B days because I am done so early... even if I have to start a little earlier in the day. While on the voyage we have slowly been moving our clocks forward. I heard that by the time we get to Russia we will have moved our clocks forward three hours. I am glad they are having us do it in chunks. The rest of Europe will be nice because we will fall back a few hours.
5) Pre-port Meetings
Before every port there are two meetings. The first is two nights before we make port and it is the cultural pre-port. These meetings go over cultural norms and discuss issues that are going on in the country. We had the opportunity to hear a speech from Dimitri who was visiting the ship. He is from Russia so he was asked to do the meeting. Apparently one of the faculty asked him to write a schedule for the event but he said that he wanted to do it the Russian way. The meeting went pretty well for the most part. He talked a lot about the culture, the history and the dress. The most amusing part of pre-port was when he was kind of arguing with a Russian student about where a photo on the powerpoint was located. It was funny for sure and all in good fun. During the presentation he asked a professor to talk about the architecture.. unfortunately the professor was not well versed in Russian architecture so some comedy followed that. I definitely enjoyed it. On the night before we port, we all meet in the union for the Logistical Pre-port, which obviously goes over the nitty gritty of safety and numbers to call in an emergency. We also get our Green Sheets which list these numbers as well as information about the field programs and information about the country. Also, I had to attend an hour long safety meeting before logistical which went over issues that have occurred in the past and how to avoid getting hurt. I definitely value these meetings because they prepare you for what lies ahead in a short amount of time. We also get to hear from Dr. Dave, who lets us know about medical things. Above all else though, the only thing on your mind is that tomorrow you will be in a different country, and you are beyond excited. I didn't sleep much that night just because I kept coming to that realization. It is a giddy kind of excitement after having been at sea. Even though we have only been gone for five days it feels like a lifetime! Time goes so slow and so fast at the same time on the ship. I cannot wait to experience Russia!
I am thinking of all of you and sending you my love! Have a great week!
-Jessica
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